Adjusting Anti-Wrinkle Cream Formula: Texture, Absorption, and Dryness Issues

Asked by: marissadajai On: November 17, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have been using the DMAE + Pep®-Coll anti-wrinkle cream formula and have seen positive results in skin firmness and wrinkle reduction. However, I am experiencing issues with the product:

  • Feeling of dryness after use.
  • The texture does not sink in well and feels like it's coating the skin.
  • The gel texture is too thick.

I want to modify the formula to address these issues and potentially convert it into a thinner, more easily absorbed serum. My current formula (second version) is:

  • Distilled Water: Approx. 65-68%
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 5%
  • WaterLock™: 0-2%
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 20%
  • Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™): 5%
  • GlucoBright™: 4%
  • Pep®-Coll (Syn-Coll): 3%
  • Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 2%
  • Phenoxyethanol (Safe Preservative): 1%

Could you provide recommendations on how to adjust this formula to improve texture, absorption, and reduce dryness, including guidance on converting it to a serum consistency?

Answer

Recommendations for Modifying the DMAE + Pep®-Coll Anti-Wrinkle Cream Formula

Based on your experience with the DMAE + Pep®-Coll anti-wrinkle cream formula and the discussion in the thread, we understand that you've seen positive results in skin firmness and wrinkle reduction but are experiencing issues with dryness, absorption, and gel texture.

Here are some recommendations for modifying the formula:

1. Adding Moisturizers to Reduce Dryness

You can definitely add more moisturizing ingredients to the formula to help reduce the feeling of dryness after use. In addition to WaterLock™ which was added in the second formula, other moisturizers like Hyaluron or Moist 72™ can also be used.

  • How to Add: These moisturizing ingredients can be added to the water phase during mixing. Reduce the amount of Distilled Water accordingly to keep the total formula at 100%.

2. Improving Texture and Skin Absorption

The issue of the texture not sinking in or feeling like it's coating the skin might be due to certain ingredients like WaterLock™, which is designed to form a film on the skin to retain moisture. This can give the sensation that the product isn't fully absorbed.

  • Adjusting Pro Polymer™: If the gel texture feels too thick, dries slowly, or feels heavy upon application, you can reduce the amount of Pro Polymer™. From the original 2%, you might try reducing it to 1-1.5% to make the gel less viscous and easier to absorb.
  • Considering WaterLock™: If you dislike the coating feeling on the skin, you can try removing WaterLock™ from the formula. If you are concerned about insufficient moisture, you can add other types of moisturizers that focus on penetrating the skin instead.

3. Converting the Formula to a Serum

If you want the formula to have a thinner, serum-like consistency, you can achieve this by significantly reducing the amount of Pro Polymer™.

  • Pro Polymer™ Amount for Serum: Generally, to create a thin, easily absorbed serum texture, a much lower amount of Pro Polymer™ is used compared to gels or creams. You might try using 0.5-1% or even less, depending on the desired serum viscosity.
  • Adjusting Other Ingredients: Keep the proportions of the main active ingredients like DMAE, Pep®-Coll, Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™), GlucoBright™, and the preservative Phenoxyethanol the same, or adjust as appropriate for the desired concentration in the serum. Adjust the Distilled Water amount to make up the remaining percentage to reach 100%.

Example of Adjusting the Second Formula into a Serum (Focusing on Moisture and Better Absorption):

  • Distilled Water: Approx. 65-68% (Adjust based on the amount of Pro Polymer™ and moisturizers added/removed)
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 5%
  • WaterLock™: 0-2% (Choose to include or omit, or reduce amount based on texture preference)
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 20%
  • Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™): 5%
  • GlucoBright™: 4%
  • Pep®-Coll (Syn-Coll): 3%
  • Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 0.5-1% (Reduced for serum texture)
  • Phenoxyethanol (Safe Preservative): 1%

Mixing Method (for Serum Formula):

  1. Mix Pro Polymer™ with a portion of the Distilled Water (or with Glycerin/Propylene Glycol if used in the formula). Stir until dispersed, then let it sit to allow the Pro Polymer™ to hydrate and form a clear gel (this may take some time).
  2. In another container, mix all other ingredients (DMAE, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, Pep®-Coll, Panthenol, WaterLock (if included), Phenoxyethanol) with the remaining Distilled Water. Stir until well combined.
  3. Slowly pour the mixture from step 2 into the gel mixture from step 1. Stir or blend gently until a homogeneous serum consistency is achieved.
  4. Check the viscosity. If it's too thick, you can add a small amount of additional Distilled Water and stir to combine.

Adjusting the formula depends on individual texture preference. It is recommended to try adjusting in small increments.