Review of Your Brightening Serum Formula and Concerns

Thank you for sharing your serum formula and concerns, including the irritation you experienced. Let's review your formula and provide some guidance.

Based on the formula you tried and the burning/stinging sensation you felt during the patch test, which aligns with the initial feedback from the staff, here's an analysis:

• Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% Powder (Originally 10%, adjusted to 5%): Glycolic Acid is a potent AHA effective for exfoliation, brightening, reducing dark spots, and improving pore appearance. However, it is also a common irritant, especially at high concentrations or for users new to AHAs. Using it at 10% is very high, and even 5% can be irritating for unconditioned skin or when combined with other actives. The hot and stinging sensation is a clear sign of irritation, likely from the Glycolic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, or the combination/concentration of actives.
• Alpha Arbutin (2%): Another brightening agent. While generally considered gentler than exfoliants, it can still cause irritation in some individuals.
• Disodium EDTA (2% in the formula you tried): Disodium EDTA is typically used as a chelating agent at much lower concentrations (e.g., 0.1-0.2%). Using it at 2% is unusually high and could potentially affect pH, formula stability, or contribute to irritation.
• Other Ingredients: Niacinamide, GlucoBright, Tomato Extract, Double Hyaluron, Centella Asiatica Extract, Bisabolol, and Glycerin are good additions. They offer benefits like brightening, anti-inflammation, hydration, and barrier support, which are suitable for your goals and can help mitigate potential irritation from other actives.

Your Experience with Irritation and Staff Recommendations

The burning and stinging you experienced confirm that the formula contained actives at a concentration too high for your skin. The staff's recommendation to remove Alpha Arbutin and Glycolic Acid and perform separate patch tests is the most accurate way to identify the specific ingredient causing the issue.

Mixing Steps

Regarding the mixing procedure, the correct method advised by the staff for Silky Serum Base Plus is to first mix the oil phase ingredients (Silky Serum Base Plus, Centella Asiatica Extract, Bisabolol) thoroughly. Then, gradually add the water phase ingredients (dissolved actives in water, distilled/boiled water, Glycerin, Disodium EDTA) into the oil phase while continuously stirring until fully incorporated. The serum will thicken as more of the water phase is added. The preservative is added last after the serum texture is achieved.

Making a Pearly White Cream

If you wish to create a pearly white cream texture, you will need different ingredients and a different method than using Silky Serum Base Plus. Cream formulations require emulsifiers to blend oil and water phases into a stable emulsion. You would also likely need thickeners and potentially opacifiers or pearlescent agents to achieve the desired white and pearly appearance. Silky Serum Base Plus is designed as a base for serums, not creams. You would need to research cream bases or emulsifier systems suitable for your ingredients.

Recommendations for Adjusting Your Formula to Reduce Irritation and Achieve Goals

To create a gentler serum that still targets brightening and pore tightening, suitable for normal skin with sun exposure (which requires caution with high-concentration exfoliants), I recommend adjusting the formula as follows:

1. Reduce or Remove Highly Irritating Ingredients:
   • Glycolic Acid: It's best to remove this from the formula for now. If you wish to use AHA in the future, start at a very low concentration (e.g., 2-3%) in a separate product or use it only at night, and always use high-SPF sunscreen in the morning. Daily use of 5-10% might not be suitable for normal skin with regular sun exposure.
   • Alpha Arbutin: If you suspect this is causing irritation, remove it or try reducing the concentration to 1% or less and patch test before full use.
   • Disodium EDTA: Reduce the concentration to a standard level of 0.1 - 0.2%. This is sufficient for its chelating function.
2. Focus on Gentler Brightening Agents: Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) and N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (GlucoBright™) are excellent partners for brightening and reducing dark spots with a much lower risk of irritation compared to Alpha Arbutin and AHAs. You can keep their concentrations as planned (Niacinamide 2-4%, GlucoBright 4%).
3. Include Soothing and Hydrating Ingredients: Centella Asiatica Extract, Bisabolol, Double Hyaluron Liquid, and Glycerin are great for reducing irritation, providing hydration, and supporting the skin barrier. Keep these ingredients in your formula.
4. Tomato Extract: A good antioxidant that may contribute to a rosy glow. You can keep this.
5. Use Silky Serum Base Plus: This base is suitable for an easily absorbed serum texture. You can adjust the concentration (e.g., 10-15%) to achieve your preferred gel consistency.
6. Use Distilled Water: For formula stability.
7. Preservative: Phenoxyethanol SA at 0.8% is a standard concentration.

Recommended Adjusted Formula (Reduced Irritation Focus):

• Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) 2-4%
• GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine) 4%
• Tomato Extract (Lycopene) 5%
• Double Hyaluron Liquid 1-2%
• Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 7.7%) 2%
• Bisabolol 1%
• Glycerin (Vegetable) 99.5% 3-5%
• Disodium EDTA 0.1-0.2%
• Silky Serum Base Plus 10-15% (Adjust for desired texture)
• Phenoxyethanol SA 0.8%
• Distilled Water Balance (to make 100%)

Mixing Instructions (Following Staff Advice):

1. Combine the oil phase ingredients: Silky Serum Base Plus, Centella Asiatica Extract, Bisabolol. Stir until well mixed.
2. Combine the water phase ingredients: Niacinamide, GlucoBright, Tomato Extract, Double Hyaluron, Glycerin, Disodium EDTA, Distilled Water. Stir until dissolved.
3. Gradually add the water phase mixture (from step 2) into the oil phase mixture (from step 1) in small amounts while continuously stirring until fully incorporated. Repeat until all the water phase is added. The mixture will thicken into a serum.
4. Add Phenoxyethanol SA to the serum and stir until fully mixed.

Important Precautions:

• Always perform a patch test with the adjusted formula on a small area of skin before applying it to your face.
• If you wish to incorporate Glycolic Acid in the future, start at a very low concentration and use it cautiously, ensuring adequate sun protection.

I hope this detailed advice helps you create a suitable serum for your skin!