Formula Adjustment Advice for Cleansing Cream

Thank you for sharing your facial cleansing cream formula for dry, sensitive skin. It sounds like you've put thought into creating a gentle product. Let's address your concerns about acne and cleansing effectiveness.

Replacing Fractionated Coconut Oil

You mentioned hearing that natural oils can cause acne and asked if replacing Fractionated Coconut Oil with LipidSoft would help. While it's true that some oils can be comedogenic (clog pores), Fractionated Coconut Oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is generally considered non-comedogenic and is often used in products for sensitive skin. However, individual skin reactions can vary, and even non-comedogenic ingredients can cause issues for some people, especially at higher concentrations. Your formula uses 20% Fractionated Coconut Oil, which is a significant amount.

LipidSoft is a family of emollients, and their comedogenicity varies. Based on product information, LipidSoft Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate) is a lightweight emollient that is specifically noted as non-comedogenic and can be a good alternative to consider if you suspect the Fractionated Coconut Oil is contributing to your acne. It provides a soft, smooth feel without being greasy.

Replacing the Fractionated Coconut Oil with LipidSoft Lite at a similar percentage (or starting lower and adjusting) might help reduce breakouts if your skin is reacting to the Fractionated Coconut Oil. You would need to adjust the Satin Cream Maker percentage slightly if changing the oil phase.

Improving Cleansing Performance with MakeUp-Wash

You are right that your current formula, while gentle, might not be strong enough to remove waterproof and long-lasting makeup effectively. Adding MakeUp-Wash (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) is an excellent idea.

MakeUp-Wash is a gentle, non-ionic surfactant that forms micelles in water. Micelles are very effective at capturing and lifting away oil-based dirt, makeup, and impurities from the skin, including waterproof products, without stripping the skin's natural moisture. It is specifically designed for cleansing products, particularly makeup removers.

Adding MakeUp-Wash will significantly boost the cleansing power of your formula. The recommended usage rate for MakeUp-Wash is 1-10%, with 3-5% recommended for washing or wiping makeup. You could start by adding 3-5% MakeUp-Wash to your water phase. You would need to reduce the percentage of water accordingly to keep your total formula at 100%.

Suggested Formula Adjustments

Here is a suggested revised formula incorporating MakeUp-Wash and replacing Fractionated Coconut Oil with LipidSoft Lite:

Water Phase:

• Lauryl Glucoside: 8.0%
• Propylene Glycol: 10.0%
• Glycerin (Vegetable): 10.0%
• Phenoxyethanol SA: 0.7%
• Lactic Acid (to adjust pH to 5-6): 0.5%
• MakeUp-Wash: 5.0% (adjust water down by this amount)
• Water: 44.8% (Original 49.8% - 5.0% MakeUp-Wash)

Oil Phase:

• LipidSoft Lite: 20.0% (replacing Fractionated Coconut Oil)
• Satin Cream Maker: 1.0% (may need slight adjustment based on texture)

Total: 100.0%

This revised formula maintains the gentle base while adding effective makeup removal capabilities and using a potentially less comedogenic oil phase ingredient. Always test the revised formula on a small area first to ensure compatibility with your skin.

Summary of Changes:

• Replaced Fractionated Coconut Oil with LipidSoft Lite to potentially reduce acne.
• Added MakeUp-Wash at 5% to improve waterproof makeup removal.
• Adjusted water percentage to accommodate the addition of MakeUp-Wash.

Remember to mix MakeUp-Wash into the water phase before adding the oil phase, as per its usage instructions. Adjust the Lactic Acid as needed to achieve a final pH of 5-6 after all ingredients are combined.