Adjusting Cream Formula, Replacing Ingredients, Adding Actives, and Addressing White Cast

Adjusting the Cream Base Formula and Additional Ingredients

Based on the cream base formula you have, the additional ingredients you wish to add, and information from other users, here is a guide to adjusting your formula using ingredients available from our store:

1. Substituting Ingredients in the Original Cream Base with Our Ingredients

Here is a suggested approach to replacing the ingredients in your original cream base with ingredients available in our store, keeping the original percentages as a starting point for formulation:

• Wax C (4%): Can be replaced with Cetyl Alcohol at 4%.
• Lexmeul 561 (6%): This ingredient is likely an emulsifier or thickener. To achieve the desired texture and address the white cast issue, our Light Cream Maker™ is an easy-to-use Oil-in-Water emulsifier that works without heat and provides a light, non-greasy cream texture. It can replace the entire group of original emulsifiers (Wax C, Lexmeul 561, Cremophor A-6, Cremhor A-25). Adjust the percentage of Light Cream Maker™ (typically 1-3%) to achieve the desired viscosity (you might need a higher percentage if the formula contains a high amount of electrolytes).
• Cremophor A-6 (3%): Can be replaced with Ceteareth-6 (and) Stearyl Alcohol at 3% (often used in combination with Ceteareth-25).
• Cremhor A-25 (1%): Can be replaced with Ceteareth-25 at 1% (often used in combination with Ceteareth-6 (and) Stearyl Alcohol).
• Puresyn-4 (4%): Can be replaced with Hydrogenated Polydecene (Light, 6cSt) at 4%, which is an emollient with a texture similar to Mineral Oil but with high stability.
• Lexol 865 (4%): Can be replaced with Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP) at 4%, which is an emollient ester that helps adjust the skin feel and spreadability of the formula.
• Propylene cylcol (PG) (3%): Can be replaced with Propylene Glycol at 3%.
• Silicone 344 (3%): Can be replaced with Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone) at 3%, which is a fast-evaporating silicone that provides a soft, smooth, non-greasy feel.
• Water (70%): Use the remaining percentage to reach 100%.
• Allantoin (0.5%): Can be replaced with Allantoin at 0.5%.
• Vitamin E (0.5%): Can be replaced with Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) at 0.5%.
• Germaben II (1%): A broad-spectrum preservative like Mild Preserved™ COS can be used as a replacement at 0.75-1.5% (a challenge test is recommended to confirm effectiveness in your specific formula).

Summary of Substitutions (using individual ingredients):

Alternative to address white cast:

As you and another user noted, Cetyl Alcohol is likely causing the white cast. If you want to avoid this, consider replacing the entire emulsifier/thickener system (Wax C, Lexmeul 561, Cremophor A-6, Cremhor A-25) with Light Cream Maker™. Adjust the percentage of Light Cream Maker™ to achieve your desired consistency. Creams made with Light Cream Maker™ are lighter and absorb more easily.

3. Adding Additional Ingredients and Compatibility

The ingredients you wish to add – Activated Resorcinal, B3, N-Acetyl, Urea, Sodium PCA, and Sodium Lactate – can be incorporated into the adjusted cream base. Here are considerations regarding compatibility and mixing:

• Activated Resorcinal™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol): A potent whitening agent, soluble in oil. Use up to 1% in leave-on products. Optimal pH is around 4.5-5.5 and it is light-sensitive. Add Disodium EDTA (approx. 0.2%) in the water phase to help prevent discoloration. It is compatible with Vitamin B3 and N-Acetyl Glucosamine.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Vitamin B3, helps reduce wrinkles, dark spots, control oil, and strengthen the skin barrier. Soluble in water. Use 1-10% (5% recommended). Optimal pH is 3-8 (best 4-7). Tolerates heat but avoid prolonged heating. Compatible with Activated Resorcinal and N-Acetyl Glucosamine.
• GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): Whitening, reduces dark spots, stimulates Hyaluronic Acid, gentle exfoliation. Soluble in water. Use 1-8% (4% recommended with 2-4% Niacinamide). pH 3-7. Tolerates heat but avoid prolonged heating. Works synergistically with Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) for whitening.
• Urea: Provides high moisturization and exfoliation (at >5%). Soluble in water. Use 3-20% (for moisturizing). Has a pH around 7.2 and may become unstable (pH increases) over time, especially above 35°C. Recommend stabilizing with Gluconolactone (approx. 15% of Urea amount) or Triacetin (1:10 ratio with Urea) to help stabilize Urea. Works synergistically with Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate.
• Sodium PCA 50%: Part of NMF, helps moisturize. Soluble in water and alcohol. Use 0.5-2%. It is an electrolyte, which can affect the viscosity of some thickeners (like Light Cream Maker™). Recommended for use with Sodium Lactate and Urea.
• Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural): Provides moisturization and mild skin brightening. Soluble in water. Use 2-10% (3-5% recommended). Short-term heat resistance. Also an electrolyte. Recommended for use with Sodium PCA and Urea.

Considerations when adding additional ingredients:

• Electrolytes (Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate) can reduce the viscosity of creams made with Light Cream Maker™. Add electrolytes gradually in the final step after the cream has formed, and adjust the amount of Light Cream Maker™ if needed to regain desired thickness.
• Activated Resorcinal™ is oil-soluble, while most other added actives are water-soluble. Mix oil-soluble ingredients in the oil phase and water-soluble ingredients in the water phase before combining the phases according to the Oil-in-Water cream making method.
• Ensure the final pH of the formula is suitable for all active ingredients to maintain their efficacy and stability (generally between 4.5-7).
• Activated Resorcinal™ is light-sensitive; the final product should be packaged in an opaque container.

In summary, you can adjust your cream base using the recommended ingredients and add the desired active ingredients. Pay close attention to the compatibility notes, especially regarding pH, mixing methods, and the potential impact of electrolytes on your chosen thickener to achieve a stable and effective final product.