Adjusting Cream Texture for Mature Skin (DMAE, Natto Gum)

Question

I am formulating a cream for my mother's dry, mature skin with wrinkles and dark spots. The formula includes Pro-Vitamin B5, Natto Gum (5%), Glycerin (4%), Creatine, DMAE Liquid, Pep-Coll, Tranexamic Acid, Avocado Oil (5%), Shea Butter Light Oil (5%), and Satin Cream Maker. I am using a milk frother for mixing. How can I make the cream less sticky and absorb faster, especially since it contains 5% Natto Gum and 4% Glycerin? Are there silicone-free emollient alternatives to improve texture? What is the best mixing method using a milk frother for this type of formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on your formula and goals for your mother's skin:

Your proposed formula contains excellent active ingredients for dry, mature skin with wrinkles and dark spots, including moisturizers like Pro-Vitamin B5, Natto Gum, Glycerin, and Creatine, anti-aging ingredients like DMAE Liquid and Pep-Coll, and brightening agent Tranexamic Acid. The oils (Avocado Oil, Shea Butter Light Oil) provide necessary nourishment for dry skin.

Regarding the texture, with 5% Natto Gum and 4% Glycerin, the formula might feel slightly sticky or absorb slower than desired. The current oil phase (10%) is moderate and provides moisture, but the specific oils used might not be the fastest absorbing.

To make the cream feel less sticky and absorb more easily while remaining silicone-free, you can adjust the oil phase by replacing some of the Avocado Oil and Shea Butter Light Oil with lighter, faster-absorbing emollients. Good silicone-free options include:

LipidSoft™ Cyclo: A fast-evaporating emollient that replaces silicones, providing high spreadability and a light feel.
LipidSoft™ B: Easy to spread, quick-drying, and leaves a light touch.
Squalane (Olive): Absorbs quickly and leaves a non-greasy, smooth feel.

You could try replacing some of your current oils with a blend of these, for example, reducing Avocado Oil and Shea Butter Light Oil to 2-3% each and adding 3-6% of LipidSoft Cyclo, LipidSoft B, or Squalane.

Using your milk frother is a great idea! It provides the mechanical mixing needed to properly emulsify the oils and water phase, especially when working with ingredients like DMAE which can make formulations tricky. You can mix the water-soluble ingredients (including humectants and actives) in one phase and the oil-soluble ingredients (oils, LipidSofts) in another. Add the Satin Cream Maker to the water phase, mix briefly, then slowly add the oil phase while using the milk frother to mix until a stable cream forms. Using heat (below 40°C for heat-sensitive ingredients like DMAE and Pep-Coll) can help dissolve ingredients faster, but the key for emulsification here is the mechanical mixing from the frother.

Experimenting with the percentages of the lighter emollients will help you achieve the perfect balance of moisture and a pleasant, non-sticky feel for your mother's skin.