Adjusting Eye Serum Formula for Dark Circles, Eye Bags, and Wrinkles

Question

I want to create an eye serum for my skin, which is dry with a slightly oily T-zone, and has visible wrinkles, dark circles, and under-eye bags. I have drafted the following formula. Could you please review it and provide feedback? I also want to know how to incorporate oil and the appropriate concentration for Disodium EDTA.

My initial formula draft includes:

Silky Serum Base (35%)
Vitamin B5 ExtraLite (5%)
MOIST72 (3%)
Matrixyl 3000
Apple Stem Cell
Slim Coffee
Safe B3
N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine
beta glucan
Phenoxyethanol SA
Water (qs)

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

The staff has reviewed your eye serum formula for reducing dark circles and under-eye bags, considering your dry skin with a slightly oily T-zone and visible wrinkles/under-eye bags.

Here is the feedback and suggested modifications:

Formula Review:

The amount of Silky Serum Base (35%) is too high, which will result in a formula that is too liquid.
Some ingredients are used in concentrations higher than necessary, especially for the delicate eye area. Concentrations for eye products should generally be reduced by about 50% compared to face products.

Suggested Modifications:

Reduce Silky Serum Base from 35% to 10%. Replace the remaining percentage with Water.
Reduce Vitamin B5 ExtraLite from 5% to 2%.
Reduce MOIST72 from 3% to 1%.
The concentrations of the other ingredients (Matrixyl 3000, Apple Stem Cell, Slim Coffee, Safe B3, N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine, beta glucan, Phenoxyethanol SA) are considered appropriate after these adjustments.

Mixing Instructions:

Mix ingredients 1-10 (Matrixyl 3000, Apple Stem Cell, Slim Coffee, Safe B3, N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine, Vitamin B5 ExtraLite, beta glucan, MOIST72, Phenoxyethanol SA, and Water - the adjusted amount) together until they are completely dissolved and clear.
Divide this mixture (ingredients 1-10) into approximately 10 equal portions.
Gradually add each portion to the Silky Serum Base (ingredient 11 - the adjusted amount), stirring thoroughly after each addition until it is well incorporated before adding the next portion. Continue this process until all 10 portions have been added and the mixture forms a serum texture.

Important Note on Mixing:

If mixing manually by hand, it is recommended to make small batches, ideally no more than 30 grams total. Silky Serum Base requires significant mixing force to incorporate properly.
Adding the water phase (ingredients 1-10 mixture) gradually, one portion at a time, is crucial for the serum texture to form correctly. Adding too much at once may prevent the mixture from becoming a serum or require a very long mixing time.

Regarding your questions about adding oil and the concentration of Disodium EDTA, the staff's response did not specifically address these points.