Adjusting Formula for Lipstick Stick
Question
How can I adjust a provided liquid/semi-liquid lip formula, which includes LipidSoft Moist, Isododecane, powders, Silicone Film, Warp Cream Maker, and Silicone Gel, to create a solid lipstick stick? What ingredients should be adjusted or added, and in what proportions?
Answer
How to Adjust the Formula for a Lipstick Stick
Hello! Regarding the lipstick formula you provided (LipidSoft Moist 15%, Isododecane 22%, Silk Talc Powder (Methicone Coated) 10%, MatteSilica 10%, Silicone Film 20%, Warp Cream Maker 17%, Silicone Gel 16%), the total percentage is 110%, which exceeds 100%. You should first verify that the total percentage is correct.
Furthermore, the formula you provided appears to be designed for a liquid or semi-liquid product (such as liquid lipstick, lip gloss, or lip cream) rather than a solid lipstick stick.
Why the Original Formula is Not Suitable for a Lipstick Stick
A lipstick stick requires a solid structure to maintain its shape at room temperature. The key components that provide this hardness are Waxes and Solid/Semi-Solid Oils/Butters, which are currently missing from your formula.
Most of the ingredients in your original formula are liquids (e.g., LipidSoft Moist, Isododecane, Silicone Film, Silicone Gel) and powders (Silk Talc Powder, MatteSilica), which are not sufficient to form a solid stick.
Additionally, Warp Cream Maker is a Water-in-Oil emulsifier used to combine water and oil phases (common in creams, foundations, sunscreens, or some lip creams). However, most lipstick sticks are anhydrous (water-free) formulas, so Warp Cream Maker is not necessary and should be removed from the formula.
Adjusting the Formula to Make a Lipstick Stick
To adjust your original concept into a lipstick stick formula, you will need to:
- Remove Warp Cream Maker: As it is an emulsifier not needed for anhydrous lipstick stick formulas.
- Add Solid Components: You must add Waxes and/or Solid/Semi-Solid Oils/Butters to make the lipstick solid enough to form a stick.
- Waxes: Such as Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, Beeswax, Synthetic Wax. Waxes help the lipstick become hard and maintain its shape. The amount used depends on the type of wax and the desired hardness, generally ranging from 10-20% or more, depending on the formula and chosen wax.
- Solid/Semi-Solid Oils/Butters: Such as Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Mango Butter. Some butters can help increase hardness and provide a good texture. They are often used in combination with waxes.
- Reduce the Percentage of Original Components: The original liquid and powder components (LipidSoft Moist, Isododecane, Silk Talc Powder, MatteSilica, Silicone Film, Silicone Gel) will need to be significantly reduced in percentage to make room for the waxes and butters and to ensure the total percentage equals 100%.
- LipidSoft Moist and Isododecane are emollients that help the lipstick feel smooth and spread easily. Isododecane is a volatile ingredient that helps prevent stickiness and evaporates quickly. They can be kept but at lower percentages.
- Silk Talc Powder and MatteSilica are powders that contribute to texture, matte finish, and oil absorption. They can be used in appropriate amounts to adjust the lipstick texture.
- Silicone Film helps with long-lasting properties. It can be included if this property is desired.
- Silicone Gel helps improve texture and smoothness. It can be used in appropriate amounts.
Example Adjustment Guideline (Not a Complete Formula):
- Remove Warp Cream Maker (17%).
- Add Wax (e.g., Candelilla Wax) approximately 10-15%.
- Add Butter (e.g., Shea Butter) approximately 5-10%.
- Adjust the percentages of the remaining original components (LipidSoft Moist, Isododecane, Silk Talc Powder, MatteSilica, Silicone Film, Silicone Gel) so that their combined percentage equals the remaining amount (100% - %Wax - %Butter), and adjust the ratio of each according to your desired texture.
Achieving the desired texture and hardness for a lipstick stick requires careful experimentation and adjustment of the proportions of waxes, oils/butters, and other components.
Related Products Mentioned
Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
Isododecane (Germany)
Talc Powder (5 Micron, Methicone Coated)
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron)
LipidSoft™ Moist (Triethylhexanoin)