Adjusting Formulation Texture and Reducing Stickiness
คำถาม
I have developed two cosmetic formulas, a sunscreen foundation and an anti-wrinkle formula, but both formulations are too thick/gel-like and sticky. I would like to adjust them to be more liquid and less sticky. Could you please advise on potential issues and adjustments based on the following ingredient lists?
Sunscreen Foundation Formula:
- Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™: 10%
- BB Micro Silk™: 5%
- LipidSoft™ CC: 4%
- Coenzyme Q10: 2%
- Titanium Dioxide: 10%
- Zinc Oxide: 10%
- Dimethicone: 5%
- SiliSolve Plus™: 3%
- Water-Capsule: 4%
- Vitamin B3 Niacinamide: 3%
- n-acetyl glucosamine: 3%
- Allantoin: 0.20%
- Phenoxyethanol: 1%
- Vitamin B5: 4%
- Water: Balance to 100%
Anti-wrinkle Formula:
- Bisabolol: 1%
- Water Capsule: 3%
- ALA: 3%
- Coenzyme Q10: 2%
- Cerasoft: 2%
- Rose Hip Oil: 2%
- Squalane: 1%
- Dimethicone: 10%
- SiliSolve Plus™: 3%
- Vitamin B3 Niacinamide: 4%
- n-acetyl glucosamine: 4%
- Allantoin: 0.10%
- Phenoxyethanol: 1%
- Vitamin B5: 3%
- Ectoin: 1%
- Natto Gum: 5%
- Matrixyl 3000: 5%
- Grape Seed Extract: 2%
- Water: Balance to 100%
คำตอบ
Based on the formulas you provided and the feedback from the staff, here are some suggestions to make your formulations more liquid and less sticky:
For the Sunscreen Foundation Formula:
The staff identified several ingredients that are likely contributing to the thickness and tackiness of your foundation formula. To make it more liquid and easier to spread, consider the following adjustments based on their recommendations:
- Emulsifier: Remove Water-Capsule (4%). The staff indicated that SiliSolve Plus™ (3%) is sufficient for emulsification in this formula and that Water-Capsule is not suitable here. Removing it will reduce the overall thickening effect.
- Vitamin B5: Reduce Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) from 4% to 0.5-1.0%. High concentrations of Vitamin B5 can cause stickiness, especially in foundation or sunscreen formulas.
- Dimethicone: Use a Dimethicone (Very Light, Low-Odor) type instead of the current one. Different types of Dimethicone have varying viscosities. A lighter version will help reduce the overall thickness and improve spreadability without necessarily changing the percentage significantly (your current 5% is likely acceptable with a lighter grade).
- Coenzyme Q10: Reduce Coenzyme Q10 from 2% to 0.1-0.2%. The maximum recommended usage rate is 1%, and using it at 2% is too high. Reducing it will also help prevent its natural yellow/dark red color from affecting the foundation shade.
- Mineral UV Filters: Reduce Titanium Dioxide (10%) and Zinc Oxide (10%) to 5% each. High percentages of these powders significantly increase the viscosity and thickness of the formula. Reducing them will result in a much lighter texture.
After making these reductions, you will need to increase the water percentage to bring the total back to 100%.
- Example Adjusted Formula 1 (Percentages are approximate after reductions):*
- Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™: 10%
- BB Micro Silk™: 5%
- LipidSoft™ CC: 4%
- Coenzyme Q10: 0.2%
- Titanium Dioxide: 5%
- Zinc Oxide: 5%
- Dimethicone (Very Light, Low-Odor): 5%
- SiliSolve Plus™: 3%
- Vitamin B3 Niacinamide: 3%
- n-acetyl glucosamine: 3%
- Allantoin: 0.20%
- Phenoxyethanol: 1%
- Vitamin B5: 1%
- Water: ~54.6% (Adjust to 100% total)
For the Anti-wrinkle Formula:
Similar to the first formula, the staff noted conflicting emulsifiers and potentially high levels of certain ingredients contributing to the gel-like and sticky texture. To achieve a more serum-like consistency that is less sticky:
- Emulsifier: Address the conflicting emulsifiers. Your formula lists both Water Capsule (3%) and SiliSolve Plus™ (3%). Based on the staff's feedback on the first formula, it's likely that SiliSolve Plus™ is the intended emulsifier for this type of system (water-in-silicone). Remove Water Capsule (3%).
- Thickeners/Gelling Agents: Natto Gum (5%) is a gelling agent and contributes significantly to the gel-like texture and potential stickiness. Consider reducing its percentage, perhaps towards the lower end of its recommended range (3-10%), for example, reducing it to 3%.
- Silicones/Emollients: Dimethicone (10%) is present at a relatively high percentage and can influence the feel and spreadability. While it can provide a smooth feel, at 10% it might contribute to the perceived heaviness or slight tackiness, especially in combination with other ingredients. Consider slightly reducing the Dimethicone percentage, perhaps to 5-8%, or ensuring you are using a lighter viscosity grade if available.
- Check Usage Rates: As the staff mentioned, please double-check the maximum recommended usage rates for all ingredients on the product pages to ensure you are not exceeding them, as this can affect both efficacy and texture.
After making these adjustments, increase the water percentage to balance the formula to 100%.
- Example Adjusted Formula 2 (Adjustments suggested):*
- Bisabolol: 1%
- Water Capsule: 0% (Removed)
- ALA: 3%
- Coenzyme Q10: 2%
- Cerasoft: 2%
- Rose Hip Oil: 2%
- Squalane: 1%
- Dimethicone: 7% (Example reduction from 10%)
- SiliSolve Plus™: 3%
- Vitamin B3 Niacinamide: 4%
- n-acetyl glucosamine: 4%
- Allantoin: 0.10%
- Phenoxyethanol: 1%
- Vitamin B5: 3%
- Ectoin: 1%
- Natto Gum: 3% (Example reduction from 5%)
- Matrixyl 3000: 5%
- Grape Seed Extract: 2%
- Water: ~58.9% (Adjust to 100% total)
Important Considerations:
- Skin Type: The staff asked about your skin type or the skin type of the intended user. Providing this information will help in giving more tailored advice, as different skin types may prefer different textures and ingredient levels.
- Ingredient Interactions: When adjusting formulas, it's always best to make small changes and test the results. The interaction between ingredients can sometimes lead to unexpected textures.
- Usage Rates: Please heed the staff's warning about checking and adhering to the recommended maximum usage rates for all ingredients to ensure safety and optimal performance.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Rose Hip Oil (Extra Virgin Organic)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Squalane (Olive)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
BB Micro Silk™
Natto Gum Extract
LipidSoft™ CC (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)
Coenzyme Q10 Extra
Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™
Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor)
Water-Capsule™ (Water-in-Oil Cream)
SiliSolve Plus™
Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid
ALA Ready™ (Alpha Lipoic Acid Oil Base)
Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
Cerasoft™ (Synthetic Ceramide)