Adjusting Foundation Formula for Lighter, Dewier Texture

Asked by: slimandspa On: June 03, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

My foundation formula is too thick and dry. How can I adjust it to be lighter and more dewy? I was considering increasing the proportion of mineral oil, Dimethicone, or Cyclomethicone, or decreasing Oil Thick. My current formula is:

  • Light Cream Maker: 2%
  • LipidSoft Lite: 32.5%
  • Oil Blender: 4%
  • Silk Mica Powder: 18%
  • Silica: 2%
  • White Matte: 2%
  • Titanium Dioxide Nano easy: 15%
  • Zinc Oxide 200 mm easy: 7%
  • Glycerin 99.5%: 3%
  • Preservative: 1%
  • Other colors: 8.5%
  • Water: 5%
  • Total: 100%

Answer

Suggested Formula Adjustment

To make the foundation lighter, more dewy, and less dry, consider the following changes:

  • Reduce Powder Content: The total amount of powders is the primary contributor to the thickness and dryness. Reduce the percentages of Silk Mica Powder, Silica, White Matte, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and other colors.
  • Increase Water Phase: Increasing the water content will help lighten the texture.
  • Adjust Oil/Emollient Phase: Reduce the amount of LipidSoft Lite and introduce emollients that provide more gloss and a lighter feel.

Here is an example of how you could adjust the percentages. Please note that you may need to experiment to find the exact percentages that give you the desired texture and coverage.

Ingredient Original % Suggested Adjusted % Notes
Light Cream Maker 2% 2% Emulsifier and thickener. Keep the same for now, adjust if needed.
LipidSoft Lite 32.5% 15% Reduce significantly as it's low gloss and high percentage.
LipidSoft Shine 0% 5% Add for increased gloss/dewiness.
Cyclomethicone or Dimethicone 0% 10% Add a light silicone for a lighter, silkier feel and improved spread.
Oil Blender 4% 4% Keep the same, assuming it helps with pigment dispersion.
Silk Mica Powder 18% 8% Reduce powder.
Silica 2% 0.5% Reduce powder, especially if dryness is an issue.
White Matte 2% 1% Reduce powder.
Titanium Dioxide Nano easy 15% 8% Reduce powder.
Zinc Oxide 200 mm easy 7% 4% Reduce powder.
Glycerin 99.5% 3% 3% Keep as humectant.
Preservative 1% 1% Keep for preservation.
Other colors 8.5% 5% Reduce total color powder load.
Water 5% 33.5% Significantly increase water phase to lighten texture.
Total 100% 100%

Explanation of Changes:

  • By drastically reducing the total powder content from over 50% to around 26.5%, the formula will become much lighter and less dry.
  • Increasing the water content provides a more fluid and less heavy base.
  • Replacing a large portion of the low-gloss LipidSoft Lite with LipidSoft Shine will directly increase the dewiness and gloss of the final product.
  • Adding a light silicone like Cyclomethicone or Dimethicone will improve the spreadability and feel, making it more lightweight and less thick.

Remember to mix carefully, ensuring all powders are well dispersed in the oil/silicone phase before emulsifying with the water phase. You may need to adjust the percentages slightly based on your desired final texture.