Adjusting Gel Formula: Reducing Tingling/Peeling and Adding Oil-Soluble Ingredients

Asked by: chonnika_me On: February 12, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a finished gel formula (which caused tingling and peeling, likely due to high DMAE and Hyaluronic Acid).

  • Can I add distilled water to the finished gel to dilute it?
  • I have PE-1 Aqua, which is oil-soluble. When should I add it to the diluted gel, and is it possible to add it since the formula is water-based with no oil?
  • If I make a separate Aloe Vera Gel base, can I add PE-1 Aqua to that as well?
  • I also have oil-soluble Mulberry Extract. Can I add this extract to both the diluted DMAE formula and the Aloe Vera Gel base?

Answer

Adjusting Your Gel Formula

Based on the staff's response, the tingling sensation you and your mother experienced is likely due to the high concentration of DMAE (SkinTight MD™) at 20%. While effective for anti-aging, this concentration is at the maximum recommended level and can cause irritation, especially on sensitive skin or skin not previously accustomed to it. The peeling or pilling you see after the gel dries is likely caused by the high total concentration of Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano) at 2%. This is significantly higher than the generally recommended usage levels for Hyaluronic Acid (typically 0.05-0.5%), leading to film formation and peeling when other products are applied over it.

The staff's primary recommendation to address these issues is to dilute your finished gel formula by adding an equal amount of distilled water. This will effectively halve the concentration of all ingredients, bringing the DMAE down to 10% and the total Hyaluronic Acid to 1%, which should significantly reduce both irritation and peeling.

Here are the answers to your specific questions:

Can you add water to the finished gel?

Yes, you can add distilled water to the finished gel. As the staff mentioned, this is necessary to dilute the high concentrations of active ingredients causing the issues. Adding water will make the gel thinner.

When to add PE-1 Aqua, and can it be added to this formula?

PE-1 Aqua is a penetration enhancer derived from natural terpenes. While it is oil-soluble and added to the oil phase of a formula, its function is to help water-soluble active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively. Your current formula is water-based with no oil phase.

The staff suggested adding Pro Polymer along with PE-1 Aqua. Pro Polymer is a gel maker that also acts as an emulsifier, meaning it can help incorporate a small amount of oil (like PE-1 Aqua or an oil-soluble extract) into a water-based gel, preventing separation.

To add PE-1 Aqua to your diluted gel:

  1. First, dilute your existing gel with an equal amount of distilled water.
  2. Add Pro Polymer (around 1% as suggested by the staff) to the diluted gel to thicken it and act as an emulsifier.
  3. Once the Pro Polymer has properly thickened the gel, you can then add the PE-1 Aqua (at the recommended usage rate of 1.5-3.5%) and mix thoroughly. The Pro Polymer will help it blend into the water-based gel.

Can PE-1 Aqua be added to an Aloe Vera Gel base?

Yes, PE-1 Aqua can be added to an Aloe Vera Gel base, but similar to your current formula, you would need an emulsifier like Pro Polymer to ensure it blends properly and doesn't separate, as PE-1 Aqua is oil-soluble.

Can oil-soluble Mulberry Extract be added to the DMAE formula and an Aloe Vera formula?

Yes, an oil-soluble Mulberry Extract can be added to both your diluted DMAE gel formula and an Aloe Vera Gel base, provided you include an emulsifier like Pro Polymer. The Pro Polymer will help disperse the oil-soluble extract throughout the water-based gel, creating a stable formula.

What about the peeling film?

The film and subsequent peeling are a direct result of the high concentration of Hyaluronic Acid. Hyaluronic Acid is a film-former, and at high percentages, it creates a noticeable film that can peel off, especially when rubbed or layered with other products. By diluting the formula as recommended, you will reduce the Hyaluronic Acid concentration, which should eliminate or significantly reduce the peeling issue. If the film peels off, you are losing some of the active ingredients contained within that film, so you may not be receiving the full intended benefits.

In summary, diluting your current gel with distilled water is the crucial first step to resolve both the tingling and peeling. Adding Pro Polymer will help restore the gel texture and allow you to incorporate oil-soluble ingredients like PE-1 Aqua and your oil-soluble Mulberry Extract.