Adjusting Gel Mask Formula for Hydration, Soothing, and Texture

Asked by: soulmate_super On: June 28, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a cooling, hydrating gel mask aimed at reducing skin irritation and strengthening skin cells. I want the texture to be similar to IPL gel.

My proposed formula includes:

  • Lift-Now™
  • Allantoin
  • Pro Polymer
  • Aloe Vera
  • Natto Gum
  • Beta Glucan
  • WaterLock™
  • Calendula Extract
  • MOIST72
  • Squalane
  • Menthyl Lactate
  • PE1-Aqua
  • Water (69%)

I am using Allantoin at [Original percentage, likely > 0.345%] and Pro Polymer at 2%. I would like feedback on this formula, the usage percentages of Allantoin and Pro Polymer, and confirmation of the mixing steps.

Answer

Based on your goal to create a cooling, hydrating gel mask that reduces irritation and strengthens skin cells, with a texture similar to IPL gel, and considering the staff's feedback on your proposed formula:

Your formulation is a good starting point, and the mixing steps you outlined are correct. However, based on the properties of some ingredients and their recommended usage, a few adjustments are suggested:

  • Lift-Now™ (ID 406): The staff noted that Lift-Now™ is primarily for temporary skin tightening before events. If your goal is long-term skin conditioning and strengthening rather than temporary lifting, it is recommended to omit this ingredient.
  • Allantoin (ID 75): Allantoin has a limited solubility in water (up to 0.5% of the water content). With 69% water in your formula, the maximum soluble amount is 0.345%. The staff recommends using 0.2%, which is sufficient and ensures it fully dissolves without crystallization.
  • Pro Polymer (ID 234): This is your gelling agent. The staff advises that 1% Pro Polymer is usually sufficient to create a gel texture. Using 2% might result in a texture that is too thick and potentially harder to mix thoroughly. Reducing it to 1% should still provide a suitable gel consistency, potentially closer to an IPL gel texture which is often not excessively thick.

The other ingredients like Aloe Vera, Natto Gum, Beta Glucan, WaterLock™, Calendula Extract, MOIST72, Squalane, Menthyl Lactate, and PE1-Aqua are suitable for the intended benefits of hydration, soothing, strengthening, and cooling.

In summary, the formula is viable with the suggested adjustments to Lift-Now (optional removal), Allantoin (reduce to 0.2%), and Pro Polymer (reduce to 1%). The mixing procedure is correct.