Adjusting Homemade Serums: Addressing Stickiness and Layering Multiple Formulas

Hello! I understand you're asking about the four skincare formulations you've created and want advice on their usability, potential adjustments, and whether they can be used together. Based on the details you provided and the feedback from other users (C7, leelavalin, diow_tuatoo), here is some advice:

Overall Formulations and Combined Use:

• Using multiple formulas with high concentrations of active ingredients in a single routine can increase the risk of skin irritation, especially with exfoliating ingredients (like Azelaic Acid in Formula 4) or ingredients at relatively high concentrations (like DMAE 20% in Formula 1).
• It's recommended to start slowly or alternate use, for example, using the anti-aging formula in the morning and the melasma formula at night, or using them on alternate days, to allow the skin to adjust and reduce the chance of irritation.
• Leaving a short interval (about 1-2 minutes) between applying each layer can help with better absorption and reduce pilling.

Advice for Each Formula:

1. Formula 1 (Anti-aging):

   • Ingredients: This formula contains several interesting ingredients for anti-aging and skin strength, such as DMAE, Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Peptide (Syn-Coll), and Beta Glucan.
   • Stickiness: As diow_tuatoo mentioned, Pro Polymer at a concentration of 2% is likely the main cause of the sticky texture. Pro Polymer is a thickener that provides viscosity.
   • Fixing Stickiness: You can try diluting the finished formula with purified water (cosmetic-grade distilled water). Gradually add a small amount (e.g., 5-10% of the original formula weight), mix well, and try applying it. If it's still sticky, add more water until you achieve the desired texture. Adding water will also reduce the concentration of other ingredients. diow_tuatoo explained the method for recalculating the new concentrations after adding water in detail, which is a correct approach.
   • Adding Pore-Tightening Ingredients:
     • Ingredients that effectively help tighten pores are often those that aid in exfoliation and pore cleansing, such as AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) or BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) like Salicylic Acid.
     • As leelavalin recommended:
       • BHA (Salicylic Acid): Suitable for oily, acne-prone skin or those with clogged pores. It helps cleanse pores well. It can be used in an encapsulated form to reduce irritation for sensitive skin.
       • AHA (e.g., Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid): Helps exfoliate the outer layer of skin, making it look smoother, and pores may appear smaller. Start with low concentrations (not exceeding 10%) and be mindful of irritation.
     • Combining with Formula 1: Combining AHA or BHA with Formula 1 requires considering ingredient compatibility and the appropriate pH for AHA/BHA to be effective, which may require adjusting the formula and testing stability. Making a separate product specifically for exfoliation (e.g., an AHA/BHA serum or exfoliating toner) and using it alternately with the anti-aging formula might be a more effective and easier-to-control approach. However, if you wish to combine them, it's advisable to consult with a cosmetic formulation expert.
     • Product Form: Products for pore tightening can be made in various forms like serums, gels, or toners, depending on the concentration of ingredients and desired texture.

2. Formula 2 (Skin Strengthening):

   • Ingredients: Contains soothing and moisturizing ingredients like Aloe Vera, Vitamin B5, Rice Vitamin, Vitamin B12.
   • C7's Recommendation: C7 suggested that Formula 1 already contains ingredients that help with skin strength (Beta Glucan), so making a separate Formula 2 might not be necessary. It was recommended to try Formula 1 first and see the results before considering adjusting Formula 1 or adding Formula 2.
   • Using with Formula 1: If you wish to use both formulas, applying Formula 2 first (which focuses on soothing and hydration) followed by Formula 1 (focusing on anti-aging) is an appropriate order.

3. Formula 3 (Pore-Tightening Toner):

   • Ingredients: Contains relatively high Witch Hazel and moisturizing ingredients like Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids and Sodium Lactate.
   • C7's Feedback: C7 pointed out that this formula focuses more on moisturizing than pore tightening and mentioned the smell of Witch Hazel Extract which some people might not like.
   • Suitability: If you don't specifically need a highly moisturizing toner and primarily want pore tightening, this formula might not be the most effective. If you want pore-tightening results, consider the AHA/BHA group of ingredients as mentioned in point 1 and decide whether to make a separate product or attempt to combine it with Formula 1 (considering additional factors).

4. Formula 4 (Melasma Reduction):

   • Ingredients: Contains several ingredients that help reduce dark spots and melasma, such as Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Azelaic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Vitamin B5.
   • C7's Recommendations: C7 recommended increasing Vitamin B3 to 4%, which is a common concentration with research supporting its effectiveness in reducing dark spots. It was also mentioned that stickiness might come from Vitamin B5 at 5%, and suggested trying Vitamin B5 ExtraLite for a lighter texture.
   • Important Precaution: This formula contains Azelaic Acid, which helps exfoliate and reduce inflammation but also makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight. Strictly applying effective sunscreen and avoiding strong sunlight is extremely important when using products with Azelaic Acid.

Using Multiple Formulas Together (According to your and your mother's planned routines):

• Your Routine: Formula 2 (Strengthening) -> Formula 1 (Anti-aging) -> Sunscreen
  • This order is appropriate. Formula 2 helps prepare the skin and provides hydration before applying Formula 1 which contains active ingredients.
  • If layering two formulas feels too heavy or sticky (especially if Formula 1 hasn't been adjusted for stickiness), you might consider using only Formula 1 (after adjustment) as C7 suggested, or use Formula 2 in the morning and Formula 1 at night, alternating.
• Your Mother's Routine: Formula 2 (Strengthening) -> Formula 4 (Melasma) -> Sunscreen
  • This order is also appropriate, with Formula 2 providing skin conditioning before the melasma formula.
  • A very important precaution for Formula 4 is diligent sunscreen use because of the Azelaic Acid which increases sun sensitivity. Not using sunscreen can worsen melasma.
  • Similar to your routine, if layering two formulas feels heavy, you might consider using Formula 2 in the morning and Formula 4 at night, or alternate days.

Summary and Additional Recommendations:

1. Patch Test: Before using any homemade formula, always patch test on a small area of skin (e.g., behind the ear or on the forearm) to check for allergic reactions, irritation, stinging, or redness.
2. Start Slowly: If you decide to use multiple formulas together, start with low frequency, such as once a day or every other day, and gradually increase the frequency as your skin adjusts.
3. Observe Your Skin: Regularly observe your skin's changes. If you experience irritation, stinging, redness, peeling, or breakouts, stop using the product and consult a professional.
4. Stickiness of Formula 1: Try adjusting by adding water as suggested by diow_tuatoo.
5. Pore Tightening: Consider using AHA/BHA ingredients, either in a separate product or, if attempting to combine with Formula 1, research compatibility and pH further.
6. Formulas 2 and 3: Consider the necessity of using Formula 2 separately if the adjusted Formula 1 is sufficient, and Formula 3 might not be as effective for pore tightening as desired.

I hope this advice is helpful! Making your own skincare requires learning and adjustment. I wish you success in developing formulas that work well for you and your mother.