Adjusting Lip Formula for Improved Texture, Spreadability, and Color

Subject: Re: Question about lip formula

Hello,

Thank you for providing details about the issues you encountered with the lip formula (difficult to spread, clumping, uneven color, drying too fast).

The staff's suggestion to replace Isododecane with Mineral Oil is a good approach to address the issue of the formula drying too quickly and being difficult to spread.

• Isododecane is a volatile solvent, meaning it evaporates quickly. This contributes to a fast-drying, matte finish, but can make the product hard to work with and spread evenly before it sets.
• Mineral Oil is a non-volatile emollient. It stays liquid on the skin longer, providing slip and a creamy feel. Replacing some of the Isododecane with Mineral Oil will slow down the drying time, allowing you more time to spread the product smoothly and evenly before it becomes matte. This should help reduce clumping and improve color distribution.

You can start by replacing a small percentage of Isododecane (e.g., 5-10%) with Mineral Oil and adjust based on the desired spreadability and drying speed.

Regarding the uneven color, while improving spreadability helps, it's also crucial to ensure that the powder ingredients (like FD&C Red No.40 Lake EasyMix™, Silk Talc Powder, MatteSilica, and Silk Mica Powder) are extremely well dispersed in the oil phase before adding them to the heated base. Poor dispersion of pigments and powders is a common cause of uneven color and clumping. Ensure you mix or grind the powder part thoroughly with a small amount of the oil phase (perhaps some of the Isododecane or Mineral Oil you plan to use) until there are no visible clumps or streaks before incorporating into the main heated base.

By adjusting the oil phase composition and ensuring thorough powder dispersion, you should be able to achieve a smoother texture that is easier to spread with more uniform color.

Relevant Product IDs: 228, 654, 664, 206, 291