Adjusting Lip Matt Formula for Mattness and Longevity

Asked by: ac3 On: March 27, 2024 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a lip matt product using a red base. When I added orange color to achieve a reddish-orange shade, the texture lost its matt finish and became less long-lasting. How can I adjust the formula to restore the mattness and improve longevity, and what ingredients should I add?

Answer

Adjusting the color of a lip matt base can change its original properties, as the orange color you added might contain components that disrupt the matt finish or make the texture less stable. To solve this problem and make your lip matt more matte and long-lasting, you can consider adding certain ingredients to your formula.

Here are the recommended ingredients:

  • Mattifying Agent: These ingredients help absorb excess oil, making the lip texture appear more matte, and also improve the texture for easier application.

    • MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron): A special type of silica with small, porous particles that absorbs oil very well. It is suitable for use in lipsticks to achieve a matte finish and reduce stickiness.
    • Sericite Powder (CompactPro™, Matte, Dimethicone Coated): Dimethicone-coated sericite powder that provides a matte, smooth, and silky feel. It disperses easily, spreads well on the skin, and gives a natural, even look.
  • Film Former: This group of ingredients helps create a thin film layer on the lips, making the lipstick last longer, become waterproof and sweatproof, and reduce transfer throughout the day.

    • Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene (Isododecane Base): A film former that helps makeup last longer, is waterproof, and doesn't come off easily when touched. It is suitable for matte lipsticks requiring high longevity.
    • Silicone Film (Very Long-Wear, Hard, Isododecane Base): A very long-lasting, fast-drying silicone film suitable for lip products that need maximum wear time.
    • Vinyl Film (Medium Wear, Soft) (VP/Hexadecene Copolymer): Helps create a waterproof film and increases longevity. It also helps disperse pigments in the formula, making the color more uniform.
  • Thickener/Suspending Agent: Ingredients like Disteardimonium Hectorite can help improve the stability of the lip texture, ensure pigments are well-dispersed without settling, and support the matte finish and good texture.

Suggestions for Adjusting the Formula:

  1. Add a Mattifying Agent: Start by adding a small amount (e.g., 1-5%) of MatteSilica 5™ or Sericite Powder and gradually increase until you achieve the desired level of mattness.
  2. Add a Film Former: Choose a film former compatible with your lip base (e.g., one soluble in oil/silicone). Start with a low percentage (e.g., 5-10%) and test the wear time. If it still transfers easily, you can increase the amount according to the ingredient's usage recommendations.
  3. Adjust Viscosity: If the lip texture becomes too thin after adding color and other ingredients, consider adding a small amount of Disteardimonium Hectorite to help stabilize the texture and prevent pigment settling.

Formula adjustment requires careful testing with small batches to achieve the desired texture, color, and wear time.