Adjusting Your Lipstick Formula for Matte and Long-Lasting Finish

To achieve a matte finish and improve the transfer resistance of your lipstick formula (containing Candelilla Wax, Castor Oil, Jojoba Oil, Baobab Oil, Marula Oil, Squalene, Isododecane, Glycerin, Vitamin E, and color), you need to adjust the balance of waxes, oils, and volatile solvents.

1. For a Matte Finish:

A matte finish is achieved by reducing the amount of ingredients that provide shine and slip, and increasing components that create a less reflective surface.

• Reduce Oils and Squalene: Ingredients like Castor Oil, Jojoba Oil, Baobab Oil, Marula Oil, and Squalene contribute to gloss and a non-matte feel. Significantly reduce the percentage of these liquid oils and Squalene in your formula.
• Adjust Waxes: Candelilla Wax provides structure but can also add some shine. You might need to adjust its level. Consider incorporating waxes with a higher melting point or those known for a more matte finish, such as Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Increasing the total wax content relative to liquid oils will also help create a firmer, less glossy stick.
• Increase Isododecane: Isododecane is a volatile solvent that evaporates quickly after application, leaving behind a solid film of waxes and pigments. Increasing its percentage will help the formula dry down to a matte finish.
• Consider Fillers (Optional): While not in your current list, adding matte-ifying powders like Silica can absorb excess oil and further enhance the matte appearance.

2. For Long-Lasting and Transfer Resistance:

Achieving a mask-proof, kiss-proof lipstick relies on forming a durable film on the lips that resists being rubbed or washed off easily.

• Increase Volatile Solvent (Isododecane): This is crucial for long wear. Isododecane evaporates, concentrating the film-forming ingredients (waxes, polymers if added) and pigments on the lips, creating a more solid, transfer-resistant layer. Increase the proportion of Isododecane significantly.
• Increase Hard Waxes: Increase the amount of hard waxes like Candelilla Wax and Hydrogenated Castor Oil (if using) to build a stronger, more cohesive film structure that is less likely to smudge or transfer.
• Reduce Liquid Oils and Squalene: Just as with achieving a matte finish, reducing the amount of liquid oils (Castor Oil, Jojoba Oil, Baobab Oil, Marula Oil) and Squalene is essential. These ingredients act as plasticizers, making the film softer and more prone to transfer.
• Glycerin: Glycerin is water-soluble and might compromise the water/transfer resistance of the final film. Its percentage may need to be reduced or re-evaluated in a transfer-resistant formula.
• Consider Film-Forming Polymers (Optional): For truly exceptional long wear and transfer resistance, cosmetic chemists often incorporate film-forming polymers (e.g., Trimethylsiloxysilicate). These create a flexible yet tough film on the lips. This would be an addition to your current ingredient list.

By carefully adjusting the ratios of your existing ingredients, particularly by reducing the liquid oils/Squalene and increasing the waxes and Isododecane, you can significantly improve the matte finish and transfer resistance of your lipstick. Experimentation with percentages will be necessary to find the optimal balance for your desired texture and wear properties.