Suggested Lipstick Formula Adjustments

To enhance the matte finish and achieve an orange-brick color without using D4 or D5 silicones, consider the following adjustments to your formula:

For a More Matte Finish:

• Increase Matte Powder: Your current formula already includes MatteSilica 5™, which is excellent for matteness. You can slightly increase the percentage of MatteSilica 5™ or consider replacing a portion of it with MatteSilica 5XL™ (Product ID: 679), which has higher oil absorption capacity, contributing to a drier, more matte feel. Additionally, incorporating SoftTouch 5™ (Product ID: 30826), a PMMA powder, can further enhance the matte look through light scattering and provide a smoother texture.
• Adjust Emollients: The formula contains several emollients. While Cetiol Ultimate and Hemisqualane are lightweight and contribute to a non-greasy feel, slightly reducing the percentage of heavier emollients like LipidSoft™ Palm or Isoamyl Laurate Gel can help decrease shine and support a matte finish.

For an Orange-Brick Color:

• Adjust Pigment Ratios: The orange-brick color is achieved by balancing red and yellow pigments, with a touch of brown or black to create the "brick" tone. Your formula uses TRULYBRIGHT UNI-LAKE Y5 PASTE (Yellow) and TRULYBRIGHT UNI-LAKE R6 PASTE (Red). To get an orange-brick shade, you will need to increase the proportion of the yellow pigment relative to the red pigment.
• Add Brown Pigment: To achieve the "brick" aspect of the color, add a small amount of Iron Oxides Brown (Product ID: 1360). Start with a low percentage and adjust gradually to get the desired depth and tone. Black Iron Oxides could also be used in a tiny amount, but brown is generally better for a warm brick shade.

Example of a Modified Formula (Percentages are illustrative and require testing):

Here is an example of how you could adjust the percentages. Please note that these are suggestions for experimentation, and you will need to test and fine-tune the formula to achieve the exact desired texture and color.

• Pure 100% White Beeswax 2002: 7%
• SOFTISAN 649: 15.5%
• Isohexadecane: 5%
• LipidSoft™ Palm (Ethylhexyl palmitate): 3% (Reduced)
• BHT: 0.1%
• Cosmedia Gel CC Hectorite Gel™ (Dicaprylyl Carbonate Base): 3.5%
• MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron): 22% (Increased)
• Beautysphaera S: 1%
• TRULYBRIGHT UNI-LAKE Y5 PASTE: 2% (Increased for more orange)
• TRULYBRIGHT UNI-LAKE R6 PASTE: 1% (Reduced slightly)
• Vitamin E Acetate care: 0.1%
• Cetiol Ultimate (Undecane & Tridecane): 17.5% (Slightly reduced)
• Hemisqualane (C13-15 Alkane): 14.4% (Slightly reduced)
• Isoamyl Laurate Gel (Flowable): 5% (Reduced)
• SoftTouch 5™ (PMMA 5 Micron, Soft Focus, Slip): 2% (Added for matteness/texture)
• Iron Oxides Brown (non-coated): 0.8% (Added for brick tone)
  (Total: 100%)

This revised formula increases the matte components and adjusts the pigments to move towards an orange-brick shade while remaining silicone-free (D4/D5). Remember to make small adjustments and test thoroughly.