Adjusting Lipstick Formula for Pigment Settling and Opacity
Question
I have a lipstick formula and am experiencing issues with pigment settling and low opacity. I would like advice on how to adjust the formula.
My formula and mixing steps are as follows:
Formula:
- Fractionated Coconut oil: 44%
- Carnauba Wax: 8%
- Candelilla Wax: 4%
- Squalene: 25%
- Isododecane: 18%
- Vit E: 1%
(Colored with pigments from the Lake group and Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse)
Mixing Steps:
- Warm 1 + 2 + 3 + 4 + 5 until melted and combined.
- Add pigment powders.
- Add 6.
Regarding pigment usage, as this is my first time making it, I'm still adjusting the color. I used a 3/4 tablespoon measuring spoon as 1 unit. For a 50g batch of the base lipstick above:
- Lake pigments: 3-5 units, depending on the color.
- titanium didoxide easydisperse: 5 units for nude colors.
The settling I observed occurred right after mixing and pouring into the container. I see a lot of pigment powder settled at the bottom of the mixing bowl, and also small particles settled at the bottom of the lipstick container when inspected. The texture of the lipstick is hard, which I am satisfied with.
I am aware of the recommended pigment usage rates provided on the website, but if I use less than what I currently do, the color is barely visible. Even with the current amount, some colors appear transparent. Is it possible to adjust the formula to make the lipstick opaque, so it fully covers the lips when applied? I don't mind if the texture becomes slightly drier. Could the staff please provide some recommendations?
Answer
Lipstick Formulation Adjustment for Pigment Settling and Opacity
Thank you for sharing your lipstick formula and the issues you encountered. Pigment settling and low opacity are common challenges, especially with higher pigment loads.
Based on your formula and observations, the settling likely occurs because the proportion of liquid oils (Fractionated Coconut oil, Squalene) and solvent (Isododecane) is relatively high compared to the waxes (Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax). Waxes are crucial for building a stable structure that suspends pigments and prevents them from settling.
To address pigment settling and increase opacity, we recommend the following adjustments to your base formula:
- Increase Total Wax Content: Gradually increase the combined percentage of Carnauba Wax and Candelilla Wax. Waxes provide the necessary structure to hold pigments in suspension. Even though you are satisfied with the current hardness, a slight increase in wax is often needed for pigment stability.
- Decrease Liquid Components: To balance the formula and maintain the total percentage at 100%, reduce the amount of Fractionated Coconut oil, Squalene, or Isododecane. Lowering the liquid phase helps create a more stable matrix for the pigments.
- Increase Titanium Dioxide: Once the base has improved suspension properties, you can increase the concentration of Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse™. Titanium Dioxide is a key ingredient for achieving opacity and coverage. Add it gradually until you reach the desired level of opacity, ensuring it is well dispersed in the adjusted base.
For instance, you might try increasing the total wax from 12% (8% Carnauba + 4% Candelilla) to around 15-18% initially, reducing the oils/solvent proportionally. Then, experiment with increasing the Titanium Dioxide.
Additionally, ensure thorough mixing of the pigments into the melted base before pouring to promote even dispersion. However, adjusting the base composition to improve suspension is the primary step needed to prevent settling over time.
Adjusting the wax content and increasing Titanium Dioxide should help improve both pigment suspension and the opacity of your lipstick.
