Adjusting Night Body Lotion Formula for Brightening and Hydration

Asked by: alisabes On: July 12, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a nighttime body lotion for dry, rough, slightly sensitive, and dark skin, aiming for skin brightening. My initial formula included:

  • Sodium pca 5%
  • Fractionated coconut oil 5%
  • Panthenol B5 5%
  • Lactic acid AHA 5%
  • Vitamin B3 3%
  • Glucosamine N-acetyl-D 4%
  • Sodium lactate 3%
  • Alpha arbutin 2%
  • Bisabolol chamomile-Extract 1%
  • Methylsulfonylmethane msm 5%
  • Urea 5%
  • Laureth 23 5% or Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%

Based on feedback regarding compatibility (especially AHA pH vs. other actives), moisturizer levels for mild dryness, and cream maker choice (Laureth-23 vs. Light Cream Maker), could you provide a summary of the recommended adjustments and the resulting revised formula, along with considerations for cost and additional beneficial ingredients like antioxidants (Vitamin E, oil-soluble Vitamin A, C) and how to handle AHA if desired (e.g., separate gel)?

Answer

Based on the feedback provided, here's a summary of the suggestions for your nighttime skin whitening lotion formula for dry, rough, slightly sensitive, and dark skin:

Key Adjustments Recommended:

  1. Reduce Moisturizers: Since your skin is not extremely dry or flaky, it's recommended to remove some heavy moisturizers from the initial list:
    • Sodium pca 5%
    • Sodium lactate 3%
    • Urea 5%
  2. Handle AHA Separately: Lactic acid (AHA) requires a low pH (around 3-3.5) to be effective for exfoliation. This low pH can degrade other beneficial ingredients in your formula. It's suggested to either remove AHA or formulate it as a separate product (like a gel) to be used for exfoliation, applied only at night.
  3. Choose Light Cream Maker: Between Laureth-23 (5%) and Light Cream Maker (1%), Light Cream Maker is recommended. It's easier to use, gentler on the skin, and less likely to cause allergic reactions compared to Laureth-23.
  4. Consider Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: As a gentler alternative for mild dryness compared to the removed heavy moisturizers, adding Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (5%) is suggested to help balance skin moisture.

Revised Formula Suggestion:

Based on these adjustments, the suggested revised formula is approximately:

  • Fractionated coconut oil 5%
  • Panthenol B5 5%
  • Vitamin B3 3%
  • Glucosamine N-acetyl-D 4%
  • Alpha arbutin 2%
  • Bisabolol Chamomile Extract 1%
  • Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) 5%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%

Additional Considerations:

  • Cost: For a body lotion, the cost might be high. You might consider reducing the percentage of expensive ingredients like Alpha arbutin to 1% if needed.
  • Antioxidants: Adding Vitamin E Tocopheryl Acetate (2-3%) is beneficial for its antioxidant properties.
  • Other Vitamins: If within budget, you could also add oil-soluble Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate) and Vitamin C (L-Ascorbyl Palmitate).
  • AHA Gel: If you still want to use AHA for exfoliation, you can make a simple separate gel with Lactic Acid (5-10%) and Pro Polymer (1%) to be applied only at night.

This revised formula focuses on skin brightening and repair while providing moderate hydration suitable for your skin type.

Tags

Formulation Adjustment Lotion Skin Brightening Texture pH Compatibility