Adjusting Oily Lip Mask Texture (Laneige Style) After Replacing Vaseline with Shea Butter

Improving Lip Mask Texture with Waxes

It sounds like you're facing a common challenge when replacing Vaseline with Shea Butter in a lip mask formula – the texture becomes too oily and lacks structure. Vaseline provides a significant amount of body and occlusiveness that Shea Butter, while nourishing, doesn't fully replicate on its own.

To achieve a texture similar to a balm or mask, you need to incorporate ingredients that add firmness and reduce the oily feel. Waxes are ideal for this purpose.

Here are some common waxes you can use:

• Candelilla Wax: This plant-based wax is harder than Beeswax and has a melting point around 70-72.5°C. It helps add firmness and can also contribute a glossy finish to your lip mask.
• Beeswax: A natural wax from bees with a lower melting point (around 62°C) compared to Candelilla or Carnauba wax. It provides a softer, more pliable structure and also offers emollient properties.
• Carnauba Wax: Also plant-based, Carnauba wax has a high melting point (around 80°C) and is very hard. It's excellent for adding significant firmness and stability to formulas, especially in warmer conditions. It's often used in smaller amounts due to its hardness.

How to Adjust Your Formula:

1. Add Wax: Start by adding a small percentage of one or a combination of these waxes to your Shea Butter and other oil-based ingredients. A starting point could be around 5-10% of the total formula weight, but the exact amount will depend on the specific wax used and the desired final texture.
2. Heat and Mix: Gently heat your oil/butter mixture along with the wax until everything is fully melted and combined. Ensure thorough mixing.
3. Test Texture: Pour a small amount into a clean container and let it cool completely to room temperature. Check the texture. If it's still too soft or oily, you can melt the batch again and add a little more wax.
4. Adjust and Repeat: Continue adding small amounts of wax and testing until you achieve the desired firmness and feel that is less oily and more balm-like.

Combining different waxes can also help you fine-tune the texture, balancing hardness, pliability, and finish. For example, using a mix of Beeswax for softness and Candelilla or Carnauba for firmness and gloss.

By adding wax, you will create a more structured product that stays on the lips better and feels less like applying pure oil.