Adjusting Physical Sunscreen Formulas for Lighter Texture and Less White Cast

You've experimented with two physical sunscreen formulas and found them too thick and leaving a white cast. This is a common challenge with physical filters like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, especially at higher concentrations. The particle size and coating of these filters significantly impact the texture and whiteness.

To address the thickness and white cast, incorporating emollients is a recommended solution. Emollients improve the spreadability and feel of the cream, making it lighter and helping the mineral filters disperse more evenly, which reduces the visible white residue.

Suggested Formula Adjustments

You can replace some of the water in your original formulas with emollients such as LipidSoft or LipidSoft CC. LipidSoft CC is particularly suitable due to its lightweight feel and ability to help formulas spread easily without greasiness. Replacing approximately 10% of the water with an emollient is a good starting point.

Here are the adjusted formulas:

Adjusted Formula 1: Water-based Sunscreen SPF23 with Light Cream Maker

(Replacing 10% Water with Emollient)

• Zinc Oxide 5%
• Titanium Dioxide 5%
• Cyclomethicone 15%
• Dimethicone 20%
• Light Cream Maker 1.5%
• LipidSoft CC (or other suitable emollient) 10%
• Water 43.5% (Reduced from 53.5%)
• Preservative (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco) ~1% (Adjust total percentage and add according to specific preservative instructions)

Adjusted Formula 2: Water-based Sunscreen SPF23 with Warp Cream Maker

(Replacing 10% Water with Emollient)

• Zinc Oxide 5%
• Titanium Dioxide 5%
• Cyclomethicone 10%
• Warp Cream Maker 7%
• LipidSoft CC (or other suitable emollient) 10%
• Water 53% (Reduced from 63%)
• Preservative (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco) ~1% (Adjust total percentage and add according to specific preservative instructions)

Ensure the total percentage of your formula adds up to 100% after adding the preservative. The typical usage rate for a preservative is around 1%, but always follow the specific guidelines for the product you are using.

Other Considerations

• Reducing Water: It is possible to create formulas with little to no water, resulting in silicone-based sunscreens. These can offer enhanced water resistance but will lack the refreshing, hydrating feel of water-based emulsions.
• Preservatives: Any cosmetic formula containing water requires a preservative to prevent microbial contamination and ensure product safety and stability. The amount needed depends on the specific preservative used.
• Mousse Texture: Creating a stable mousse texture for cosmetic products with a long shelf life (typically 12-24 months) is generally not feasible. Mousse textures often rely on temporary aeration that is difficult to maintain over time.

By incorporating emollients and potentially using grades of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide designed for minimal whiteness (such as liquid dispersions or transparent/coated powders), you can significantly improve the texture and reduce the white cast of your physical sunscreen formulations.