Adjusting Physical Sunscreen Formula for SPF50 PA++++, No White Cast, and Better Texture
Asked by: supimpa_pim
On: February 12, 2019
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I would like to adjust the following physical sunscreen formula to achieve SPF50 PA++++, minimize white cast, improve spreadability, and ensure it is non-comedogenic:
Formula:
- Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (Gloss): 25.00%
- Mild Preserved Eco™: 1.00%
- LipidSoft™: 20.00%
- MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine): 2.00%
- Myristyl Nicotinate (Pro-Niacin™): 6.00%
- น้ำกลั่น ปราศจากเชื้อ: 40.00%
- German Chamomile Extract (Natural Bisabolol): 1.00%
- Sugar-Film™ (Inulin): 5.00%
Please provide guidance on how to modify this formula to meet these requirements.
Answer
To modify your sunscreen formula to achieve SPF50 PA++++, minimize white cast, improve spreadability, and be non-comedogenic, consider the following adjustments:
Sunscreen Active Ingredients
- Replace the current Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (Gloss) with transparent or nano-dispersions of both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Using both physical filters is crucial for broad-spectrum protection (UVA and UVB) required for SPF50 PA++++.
- Transparent/nano dispersions help significantly reduce the white cast typically associated with physical sunscreens.
- The specific grades and percentages of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide dispersions will need to be optimized through testing to reach SPF50 PA++++ and ensure minimal white cast and good feel.
Emollients and Texture
- The choice of emollients is key for spreadability and a non-greasy, non-comedogenic feel. Consider using emollients specifically designed for sunscreen formulations, such as LipidSoft™ SPF, which can help disperse the UV filters and improve the overall texture.
- Adjust the total emollient content to achieve the desired spreadability and skin feel without being heavy or occlusive.
Other Beneficial Ingredients
- Ingredients like Mild Preserved Eco™, MSH White™, Myristyl Nicotinate, Natural Bisabolol, and Sugar-Film™ (Inulin) can generally be kept in the formula as they provide additional benefits (preservation, whitening, skin conditioning, soothing, moisturizing/film-forming) and do not directly interfere with the UV protection or white cast issues, assuming compatibility with the chosen base and emulsion type.
Formulation Type
- Consider formulating as an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, which often provides a lighter, less greasy feel compared to water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, contributing to better spreadability and a less occlusive feel. This depends on the compatibility of your chosen transparent UV filter dispersions.
Achieving the desired SPF/PA level and aesthetic properties requires careful selection of specific ingredient grades and precise formulation techniques. It is highly recommended to perform stability and SPF/PA efficacy testing on the final formula.
Related Products Mentioned
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
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MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
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Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (Gloss)
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Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
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Inulin
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LipidSoft™ SPF
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