Adjusting Serum Formula: Adding Whitening/Oil Control and Addressing Precipitation

Question

I have a serum formula with the following composition:

Melus domestica fruit cell culture extract 5%
Bifida ferment lysate 5%
Ceramind complex 3%
Aloe barbadnsis leaf juice 3%
Sodium hyaluronate 1%
Allantoin 0.5%
Phenoxythanol 0.5%

The rest is water, making the water content 82%. I observed precipitation in this formula, especially when refrigerated. The staff mentioned this is likely due to Allantoin exceeding its solubility limit in water (max 0.5% at room temperature, less when cold).

I am satisfied with the formula's performance (it doesn't make my T-zone oilier and improves skin strength/tolerance to acne treatments). I want to modify this formula to add whitening and oil control properties and change the texture to a cream. I propose adding the following ingredients:

Vitamin b3 5% (for oil control/whitening)
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine 4% (for whitening)
Msm 5% (for oil control)
Licochalcone A 1% (for oil control)
Satin Mousse 1% (to create cream texture)
LipidSoft 3% (as oil phase)

with the remaining percentage being water to reach 100%. Is this approach correct? What should I consider regarding the original ingredients and the new additions?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Cream Formula Adjustment Advice Precipitation Issue: The precipitation in your serum was likely due to the Allantoin concentration exceeding its solubility in water, especially at cooler temperatures. Reduce Allantoin to 0.1-0.2% in your cream formula to prevent this. Proposed Additions: The ingredients you propose adding (Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine, MSM, Licochalcone A, Satin Mousse, LipidSoft) are suitable for your goals of adding whitening, oil control, and creating a cream texture. Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine, Tranexamic acid, and Alpha Arbutin are effective for whitening. Vitamin B3, MSM, and Licochalcone A help control oiliness. Satin Mousse and LipidSoft contribute to the cream texture and feel. Additional Whitening: You can enhance the whitening effect by adding Tranexamic acid (up to 3%) or Alpha Arbutin (up to 2%). Consider adding one or both cautiously, adjusting percentages based on desired efficacy and skin tolerance, as combining multiple strong actives can increase the risk of irritation. Formula Concentration: Be mindful that adding many actives will result in a highly concentrated formula. You may need to adjust the percentages of some ingredients (both original and new) to ensure stability and prevent irritation. Cream Base: To create a stable cream, you will need a proper emulsifier system to blend the water and oil phases (containing LipidSoft). Titanium Dioxide: In the mask formula, Titanium Dioxide is likely included to make the product appear white and visually appealing, not for skin whitening effects. Remember to test any new formula on a small area of skin first.