Adjusting Serum Formula for Better Texture

Question

I have formulated a serum with the following ingredients and percentages:
Rosehip oil 5%
Argan Oil 5%
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 3%
Fractionated Coconut Oil 20%
shea butter water 10%
Phospholipid 5%
Skin mimic 10%
Sodium PCA 10%
Matrixyl 3000 3%
Glycerine 10%
oat(hydroxyphenny acid) 0.2%
Pitera 10%
Panthenol pro vitamin b 5 3%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Rose Water 14%

The resulting texture is very thick and sticky, difficult to spread, and feels heavy. What should I add, reduce, change, or substitute to improve the texture?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the serum formulation you provided for skin barrier restoration, the thick, difficult-to-spread, and sticky texture you're experiencing is most likely due to the high combined percentage of humectants.

Your formula contains a very high level of humectants such as Glycerin (10%), Sodium PCA (10%), Pitera (10%), and Shea Butter Water (10%). While excellent for hydration, these ingredients, especially at high concentrations, are known to cause stickiness and a heavy feel. The substantial oil phase (30%) also contributes to the richness.

To improve the texture and make the serum lighter, less sticky, and easier to spread, I recommend significantly reducing the percentage of the primary humectants:

Reduce Glycerin from 10% down to 3-5%.
Reduce Sodium PCA from 10% down to 3-5%.
Reduce Pitera from 10% down to 5-7%.
Consider reducing Shea Butter Water from 10% down to 5-8%.

Increase the percentage of Rose Water to compensate for the reduction in these humectants and bring your total formula back to 100%. This will significantly improve the texture, making it lighter, less sticky, and easier to spread, while still retaining the beneficial properties of the active ingredients and oils at their current levels.

The percentages of other ingredients like the oils (Rosehip, Argan, Fractionated Coconut Oil), emulsifiers (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Phospholipid), and actives (Skin mimic, Matrixyl 3000, Oat, Panthenol) seem appropriate for their function and are less likely the main cause of the stickiness compared to the high humectant load. Address the humectants first, and if the serum is still too rich, you could then consider slightly adjusting the oil phase.