Adjusting Silicone-Based Vitamin C Serum Formulation Issues (Pilling, Pores, Moisture)
Question
I have formulated a Vitamin C serum using a silicone base. However, I am encountering several issues:
- Increased visibility of blackheads and enlarged pores on my nose.
- The serum "pills" or forms an eraser-like residue when I apply powder on top.
- The serum feels less moisturizing than desired.
While I have seen some improvement in wrinkles, I am concerned about the pores, skin tone, and melasma. How can I adjust my silicone-based Vitamin C serum formulation to address these problems?
Answer
Formulation Advice
Based on the results you've observed and the feedback from the forum, here are some suggestions to modify your serum formulation:
Addressing Blackheads and Pores
The increased visibility of blackheads on your nose after using the serum suggests that while the serum might be improving other aspects, it's not effectively addressing clogged pores. As recommended, incorporating a BHA (Salicylic Acid) product can help.
- Recommendation: Use a BHA toner. Salicylic Acid (BHA) is known for its ability to exfoliate inside pores, helping to loosen and remove clogged material like blackheads. A Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Timed-Release BHA) is suggested for a gentler, sustained effect, which can be beneficial, especially if you experienced any sensitivity.
Resolving Pilling Issues
The "pilling" or "eraser-like" residue you see when applying powder on top is a common issue with formulations containing high amounts of silicone, as noted in the feedback.
- Recommendation: If you intend to layer other products like makeup or powder over your serum, you should reduce or eliminate the Cyclomethicone and Silicone Gel from your formula. This will help prevent the formation of residue when other products are applied.
Enhancing Moisture and Texture
You mentioned that the serum feels less moisturizing than desired. The current silicone-heavy base provides a smooth feel but may not deliver sufficient hydration compared to water-based formulations.
- Recommendation: To boost moisture, consider adding more hydrating ingredients. Hyaluronic Acid is an excellent choice, available in various molecular weights (Small, Standard, Large) to provide hydration at different skin depths.
- Recommendation: Change the base of your serum. Instead of a silicone serum, consider formulating a regular gel using water and a polymer, or specifically a Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base. This type of base is water-rich and inherently more hydrating.
Improving Wrinkles and Overall Skin Condition
You noted improvement in wrinkles but are also concerned about enlarged pores, skin tone, and melasma.
- Recommendation: Continue using your Vitamin C formula for skin tone and melasma. It was suggested that visible results might take around 4 weeks of consistent use.
- Recommendation: Consider replacing Tego Pep 4-17 with Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR). Matrixyl 3000 is a peptide blend known to stimulate collagen synthesis, which can further help with wrinkles and potentially improve skin firmness and moisture levels.
By adjusting your formulation based on these points, you can create a serum that better addresses your specific skin concerns regarding blackheads, pilling, moisture, and overall skin health.
Related Products Mentioned
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)