Adjusting Skincare Formulas After Reaction: Serum for Dryness, Daughter's Acne Serum, Husband's Dark Spot Cream
Question
I recently experienced dryness and tightness after using a serum and clay mask, which the staff suggested might be flushing from low-purity Vitamin B3. I used Shea Butter and Wheat Germ Oil, which helped. I need advice on adjusting formulas for myself, my daughter, and my husband.
My Serum Formula (for anti-aging, dark spots, melasma):
- Repair Activator 10%
- Apple stem cell 2%
- Rice Vitamin 3%
- Vit B3 4%
- Glucosamine 4%
- Ceramide 2%
- Pro polymer 1%
- Alpha Arbutin 2%
- Preservative 1%
- Distilled water 71%
My skin is currently dry and tight after the reaction, although normally combination/oily.
My Daughter's Serum Formula (age 13, combination/oily T-zone, clogged pores, sensitive, using BHA Toner):
- Double Hya 3%
- Zinc PCA 1%
- MSM 2%
- Pro polymer 1%
- Water q.s.
My Husband's Proposed Dark Spot Cream Formula (sun spots, oily skin, large pores):
- Alpha arbutin 2%
- Azelaic 10%
- B3 4%
- Glucosamine 4%
- Silky serum base 55%
- preservative 1%
- Distilled water 24%
Please advise on how to adjust these formulas to address my current skin condition and the specific needs of my daughter and husband.
Answer
Skin Care After Reaction and Serum Formula for You (Age 47)
Hello! I understand your concerns about the skin dryness after the reaction and your desire to adjust the formulas for yourself, your daughter, and your husband.
Based on your experience and the advice from the staff and C7, here is a summary and additional recommendations:
The dryness and tightness you experienced after using the serum and clay mask likely resulted from a damaged skin barrier, causing moisture loss even though your skin is normally combination/oily. Using Shea Butter and Wheat Germ Oil helped by providing lipids to support skin barrier repair.
Your mixed serum formula:
- Repair Activator 10%
- Apple stem cell 2%
- Rice Vitamin 3%
- Vit B3 4%
- Glucosamine 4%
- Ceramide 2%
- Pro polymer 1%
- Alpha Arbutin 2%
- Preservative 1%
- Distilled water 71%
This formula contains excellent ingredients for your original goals (anti-aging, dark spots, melasma). However, as C7 noted, it's relatively low in direct moisturizers (Ceramide 2%), which may not be enough for compromised or dry skin.
Recommendations for your formula:
- Increase Moisture: While your skin is dry, you should increase the amount of Ceramide in your existing batch or future batches, aiming for 5-10% as C7 suggested. You could also add other moisturizing ingredients like Double Hya or a small amount of beneficial oil (Pro Polymer can help emulsify some oil).
- Observe for B3 Flushing: If you're using a low-purity Vitamin B3 source, it might cause redness or flushing. If you suspect this, consider switching to a high-purity Niacinamide.
- Adjust to Skin Condition: Once your skin barrier recovers and returns to its normal combination state, this formula (perhaps with the original lower Ceramide level or adjusted based on feel) should work well for your anti-aging and dark spot concerns.
Serum Formula for Your Daughter (Age 13)
Your daughter's skin (combination/oily T-zone, clogged pores, sensitive, using BHA Toner) needs care that balances oil, reduces inflammation, and soothes the skin from BHA use.
Her formula:
- Double Hya 3%
- Zinc PCA 1%
- MSM 2%
- Pro polymer 1%
- Water q.s.
This is a good base for hydration and oil/acne control.
Recommendations for your daughter's formula:
- Add Soothing Agents: As the staff recommended, it's crucial to add anti-irritant ingredients like Licorice Extract 1% and Bisabolol 1%. These will help strengthen the skin and reduce potential irritation from the BHA toner.
- Adjust Texture: Zinc PCA can thin the gel. If the texture is too liquid, you can increase Pro Polymer to 1.5% as the staff suggested.
- Increase MSM (if very oily): If her T-zone is very oily, increasing MSM to 3-5% could be beneficial.
- Add Rice Vitamin (if dry areas): If she experiences dryness in non-oily areas, adding a little Rice Vitamin could help balance moisture.
Dark Spot Cream Formula for Your Husband
Your husband has sun spots, oily skin, and large pores. The formula should target hyperpigmentation, control oil, and improve pore appearance.
Proposed formula:
- Alpha arbutin 2%
- Azelaic 10%
- B3 4%
- Glucosamine 4%
- Silky serum base 55%
- preservative 1%
- Distilled water 24%
This formula contains excellent active ingredients for treating dark spots, oiliness, and pores (Azelaic Acid, B3, Glucosamine, Alpha Arbutin).
Recommendations for your husband's formula:
- Consider Alpha Arbutin Redundancy: As C7 advised, if Alpha Arbutin is already in your serum, using it again in his cream might be redundant. You could omit Alpha Arbutin or replace it with another whitening ingredient that works differently, such as Tranexamic Acid, to enhance the melasma treatment.
- Adjust Silky Serum Base: A 55% Silky Serum Base is quite high and will likely result in a thin texture with this much water, potentially feeling heavy for oily skin. As C7 recommended, reduce the Silky Serum Base to around 30-40% and increase the water percentage for a lighter texture suitable for oily skin.
Summary of Potential Additional Orders:
- For you: If you need to increase moisture in your serum, consider ordering more Ceramide or a suitable skin-barrier friendly oil.
- For your daughter: It's highly recommended to order Licorice Extract and Bisabolol to add soothing properties.
- For your husband: If you decide to omit Alpha Arbutin, consider ordering Tranexamic Acid or another whitening ingredient to replace it.
I hope these recommendations help you adjust the formulas. Experiencing dryness after a reaction is common; allow your skin time to heal and focus on strengthening the skin barrier before reintroducing active ingredients gradually.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Zinc PCA
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye)
Shea Butter Light Oil
Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil)
Shea Butter Water
Pro Polymer™ Silk
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Cerasoft™ (Synthetic Ceramide)
Alpha Arbutin (China, Crystal Form)
Golden Shea Butter (Virgin, Ghana)
NanoShea™ (Liquid Shea Butter, 30%)
Ceramide 6-II (Ceramide AP)