Adjusting Sunscreen Formula for SPF 50++

Asked by: lex.sks On: March 25, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Please help adjust this sunscreen formula. I would like to achieve SPF 50++.

No. Ingredients Amount (%)
1 Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear) 20
2 Silicone Gel (Natural Olive Oil Base) 25.6
3 SiliSolve Plus™ 1
4 LipidSoft™ Lite 1
5 Isopropyl Myristate 2
6 OMC (Octinoxate) 8
7 Hair Silk 5
8 Cyclopentasiloxane 3
9 Titanium Dioxide 250nm Water 7
10 Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ 5
11 Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™ 1.5
12 Mica Powder Methicone Coated 3
13 PMMA Booster (SPF/Color Booster) 5
14 MakeGlow™ Powder 2
15 AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine) 1
16 MatteSilica 5S™ 1
17 Vitamin E 0.2
18 Preservative 0.5
19 Hyaluronic Acid 6.5
20 Chamomile 0.5
21 Aloe Vera Extract 1% 0.2
22 Fragrance 0.2

Answer

To achieve SPF 50 and improve the stability and texture of your sunscreen formula, I recommend several adjustments. The primary challenge in your original formula is the mix of water-dispersed ingredients in a high-silicone base, which can lead to instability or a gritty texture.

Key Adjustments:

  1. Optimize Sunscreen Filters: To reach SPF 50, we need to increase the concentration of both chemical and physical filters. I have increased OMC to 10% and Zinc Oxide to 10%.
  2. Switch Titanium Dioxide: Your original formula used a water-dispersed version. In a silicone gel base, it is much better to use Titanium Dioxide 250nm WaterProof™ (Dimethicone Treated). This ensures it stays in the silicone phase, providing a smoother application and better water resistance.
  3. Stability (W/Si Emulsion): Since you are adding water-based actives (Hyaluronic Acid, Extracts), you must use SiliSolve Plus™ at a sufficient level (2-3%) to properly emulsify the water phase into the silicone phase.
  4. SPF Boosting: PMMA Booster is kept at 5% to help scatter light and increase the effective SPF and color uniformity.

Recommended Revised Formula (SPF 50 PA++):

Phase A: Silicone & Oil Phase (External Phase)

  • Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky): 15.0%
  • Silicone Gel (Medium Gloss, Natural Olive Oil Base): 15.0%
  • SiliSolve Plus™: 2.5% (Emulsifier)
  • LipidSoft™ Lite: 5.0% (Helps dissolve OMC and disperse powders)
  • OMC Ultra-Pure™: 10.0% (UVB Filter)
  • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™: 10.0% (UVA/UVB Filter)
  • Titanium Dioxide 250nm WaterProof™: 8.0% (Physical Filter - Silicone Treated)
  • Cyclopentasiloxane: 5.0%
  • PMMA Booster: 5.0%
  • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 0.2%

Phase B: Powders (Mix into Phase A)

  • Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™: 1.5%
  • Mica Powder (Methicone Coated): 3.0%
  • MakeGlow™ Powder: 2.0%
  • AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine): 1.0%
  • MatteSilica 5S™: 1.0%

Phase C: Water Phase (Internal Phase)

  • Hyaluronic Acid (1% Solution): 8.0%
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 1.0%
  • Chamomile Extract: 1.0%
  • Preservative: 0.5%
  • Fragrance: 0.3%

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Prepare Phase A: Mix all ingredients in Phase A together. Use a high-speed mixer to ensure the physical sunscreens (Zinc and Titanium) are perfectly dispersed without clumps.
  2. Add Phase B: Gradually add the powders into Phase A and mix until the color is uniform.
  3. Prepare Phase C: In a separate container, mix the water, Hyaluronic Acid, extracts, and preservative.
  4. Emulsification: This is the most critical step. While stirring Phase A/B at high speed, very slowly drip Phase C into it. Do not pour it all at once. This creates a Water-in-Silicone (W/Si) emulsion, which will be stable and feel silky on the skin.

Note on SPF/PA:

This formula provides high UVB protection (SPF 50) and moderate UVA protection (PA++). If you require higher UVA protection (PA+++ or PA++++), you may consider increasing the Zinc Oxide further or adding a UVA-specific chemical filter.