Adjusting Sunscreen Formula for SPF 50++
Asked by: lex.sks
On: March 25, 2026
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Please help adjust this sunscreen formula. I would like to achieve SPF 50++.
| No. | Ingredients | Amount (%) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear) | 20 |
| 2 | Silicone Gel (Natural Olive Oil Base) | 25.6 |
| 3 | SiliSolve Plus™ | 1 |
| 4 | LipidSoft™ Lite | 1 |
| 5 | Isopropyl Myristate | 2 |
| 6 | OMC (Octinoxate) | 8 |
| 7 | Hair Silk | 5 |
| 8 | Cyclopentasiloxane | 3 |
| 9 | Titanium Dioxide 250nm Water | 7 |
| 10 | Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ | 5 |
| 11 | Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™ | 1.5 |
| 12 | Mica Powder Methicone Coated | 3 |
| 13 | PMMA Booster (SPF/Color Booster) | 5 |
| 14 | MakeGlow™ Powder | 2 |
| 15 | AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine) | 1 |
| 16 | MatteSilica 5S™ | 1 |
| 17 | Vitamin E | 0.2 |
| 18 | Preservative | 0.5 |
| 19 | Hyaluronic Acid | 6.5 |
| 20 | Chamomile | 0.5 |
| 21 | Aloe Vera Extract 1% | 0.2 |
| 22 | Fragrance | 0.2 |
Answer
To achieve SPF 50 and improve the stability and texture of your sunscreen formula, I recommend several adjustments. The primary challenge in your original formula is the mix of water-dispersed ingredients in a high-silicone base, which can lead to instability or a gritty texture.
Key Adjustments:
- Optimize Sunscreen Filters: To reach SPF 50, we need to increase the concentration of both chemical and physical filters. I have increased OMC to 10% and Zinc Oxide to 10%.
- Switch Titanium Dioxide: Your original formula used a water-dispersed version. In a silicone gel base, it is much better to use Titanium Dioxide 250nm WaterProof™ (Dimethicone Treated). This ensures it stays in the silicone phase, providing a smoother application and better water resistance.
- Stability (W/Si Emulsion): Since you are adding water-based actives (Hyaluronic Acid, Extracts), you must use SiliSolve Plus™ at a sufficient level (2-3%) to properly emulsify the water phase into the silicone phase.
- SPF Boosting: PMMA Booster is kept at 5% to help scatter light and increase the effective SPF and color uniformity.
Recommended Revised Formula (SPF 50 PA++):
Phase A: Silicone & Oil Phase (External Phase)
- Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky): 15.0%
- Silicone Gel (Medium Gloss, Natural Olive Oil Base): 15.0%
- SiliSolve Plus™: 2.5% (Emulsifier)
- LipidSoft™ Lite: 5.0% (Helps dissolve OMC and disperse powders)
- OMC Ultra-Pure™: 10.0% (UVB Filter)
- Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™: 10.0% (UVA/UVB Filter)
- Titanium Dioxide 250nm WaterProof™: 8.0% (Physical Filter - Silicone Treated)
- Cyclopentasiloxane: 5.0%
- PMMA Booster: 5.0%
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 0.2%
Phase B: Powders (Mix into Phase A)
- Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™: 1.5%
- Mica Powder (Methicone Coated): 3.0%
- MakeGlow™ Powder: 2.0%
- AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine): 1.0%
- MatteSilica 5S™: 1.0%
Phase C: Water Phase (Internal Phase)
- Hyaluronic Acid (1% Solution): 8.0%
- Aloe Vera Extract: 1.0%
- Chamomile Extract: 1.0%
- Preservative: 0.5%
- Fragrance: 0.3%
Mixing Instructions:
- Prepare Phase A: Mix all ingredients in Phase A together. Use a high-speed mixer to ensure the physical sunscreens (Zinc and Titanium) are perfectly dispersed without clumps.
- Add Phase B: Gradually add the powders into Phase A and mix until the color is uniform.
- Prepare Phase C: In a separate container, mix the water, Hyaluronic Acid, extracts, and preservative.
- Emulsification: This is the most critical step. While stirring Phase A/B at high speed, very slowly drip Phase C into it. Do not pour it all at once. This creates a Water-in-Silicone (W/Si) emulsion, which will be stable and feel silky on the skin.
Note on SPF/PA:
This formula provides high UVB protection (SPF 50) and moderate UVA protection (PA++). If you require higher UVA protection (PA+++ or PA++++), you may consider increasing the Zinc Oxide further or adding a UVA-specific chemical filter.
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