Adjusting Sunscreen Foundation Formula for Improved Texture and Stability

Recommendations for Your Sunscreen Foundation Formula

Hello Siranant, regarding the sunscreen foundation formula you inquired about, and based on the initial advice you received, I would like to offer further recommendations to help you achieve the desired cream texture.

Initial Formula Assessment

Your proposed formula includes:

• Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ 9.2%
• OMC 7.5%
• DHHB 2.5%
• MatteSilica 3™ 3%
• Dimethicone 3%
• LipidSoft™ Lite 20%
• Light Cream Maker™ 1%
• Phenoxyethanol 1%
• Distilled Water 52.8%
• Beige, Yellow, Red Iron Oxides EasyMix™ (adjust to desired color)

Question regarding Water/Oil Ratio and Light Cream Maker™ 1%

Light Cream Maker™ is an oil-in-water emulsifier and thickener that works without heat and can emulsify up to 20% oil in a formula. Your formula contains components in the oil and silicone phase including LipidSoft™ Lite (20%), Dimethicone (3%), OMC (7.5%), DHHB (2.5%), and Iron Oxides EasyMix™ (which are dispersed in oil/silicone). The total proportion of oil/silicone/oil-dispersible components is quite high, exceeding the 20% that Light Cream Maker™ at 1% can fully emulsify.

Therefore, while Light Cream Maker™ at 1% might be sufficient to form a cream texture, the resulting texture could be quite liquid, and there is a possibility that some ingredients might separate or settle, especially with solid components like Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ and MatteSilica 3™ in the formula.

MatteSilica 3™ itself can also contribute to thinning the cream. If you desire a thicker consistency and better stability, consider increasing the amount of Light Cream Maker™ to 1.5-2% as initially suggested, to aid emulsification and increase the viscosity to a more suitable level. If a liquid texture is acceptable, you can use 1%, but be sure to shake the bottle well before each use.

Recommendations for Improving Texture (Spreadability, Longevity, Wrinkle Coverage)

To address the issue of the cream drying too quickly and to achieve a more makeup-like texture that is long-lasting, easy to spread, and covers wrinkles, you can adjust the formula as follows:

1. Increase Moisture and Spreadability:

   • Increase the amount of Dimethicone (e.g., Dimethicone Medium/350, Dimethicone Light/50, or Dimethicone Very Light/5) which will help the cream have a slippery feel, be easier to spread, and provide a smooth feel on the skin.
   • Consider increasing the amount of LipidSoft™ Lite or switching some or all of it to LipidSoft™ Palm. LipidSoft™ Palm is an emollient that provides better moisture and has a slightly heavier feel than LipidSoft™ Lite. This will help reduce the quick-drying issue and allow for a longer spread time. However, be cautious when using high amounts of LipidSoft™ Palm (above 5%) if your skin is prone to clogging, especially in your slightly oily T-zone.
   • Increasing the proportion of these oil/silicone components will also help the cream feel more makeup-like, improve longevity, and enhance wrinkle blurring.

2. The Role of MatteSilica 3™:

   • MatteSilica 3™ helps absorb oil and provides a powdery/slip feel, which is beneficial for your slightly oily T-zone and improves spreadability. However, using MatteSilica 3™ can contribute to a quicker-drying feel if not balanced with sufficient moisturizing emollients.

3. Dispersion of Sunscreens and Pigments:

   • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ is coated for easy dispersion in silicone. It's best to disperse it in Dimethicone or a small amount of LipidSoft™ before adding it to the main formula to ensure even distribution and consistent sun protection.
   • DHHB is a powder that dissolves in oil. It requires heat (around 80°C) to dissolve in the oil phase (such as LipidSoft™ Lite, OMC) before combining with the water phase.
   • Iron Oxides EasyMix™ are coated pigments that disperse easily in oil/silicone. These should also be mixed and dispersed in the oil/silicone phase beforehand.

Suggested Mixing Procedure

1. Prepare the oil phase: Combine LipidSoft™ Lite (and/or LipidSoft™ Palm), Dimethicone, OMC, DHHB (dissolved with heat at 80°C), and Iron Oxides EasyMix™. Stir or blend until all components are well mixed and DHHB is fully dissolved.
2. Prepare the water phase: Combine distilled water and Phenoxyethanol.
3. To the prepared oil phase, gradually add Light Cream Maker™, stirring to combine.
4. Slowly pour the water phase into the oil phase containing Light Cream Maker™ while continuously stirring or blending (avoid blending faster than 2500 rpm to protect the Light Cream Maker™ polymer). The cream texture will begin to form.
5. Once a uniform cream is obtained, gradually add the Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ (which may have been pre-dispersed in a small amount of Dimethicone or LipidSoft™) into the cream. Stir or blend until evenly dispersed.
6. Add MatteSilica 3™ to the cream in the final step. Stir or blend until it is evenly dispersed throughout the cream.

Adjusting the amounts of Dimethicone and LipidSoft™ (Lite/Palm) will help you control the texture to be easier to spread, less quick-drying, and achieve the desired makeup feel.