Adjusting Texture and Stickiness in Facial Cleanser with Thickeners

Question

I am formulating a facial cleanser/makeup remover. I previously used SugarThick (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) at 6% to thicken the formula. While the product poured easily from the bottle (slightly viscous, not watery), it felt very sticky and difficult to massage on the face, causing the skin to wrinkle.

I was advised that using too much Easy Thick (PEG-150 Distearate) can also result in a thick, sticky texture. I would like to know:

What percentage of Easy Thick should I use to achieve a texture that is slightly viscous (pours easily) but still has enough slip to be massaged easily on the face without being sticky or causing drag?
How should Easy Thick be mixed? Is it sufficient to just add it to water and heat, or is blending/mechanical mixing required?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Addressing Stickiness with SugarThick and Exploring Alternatives

It sounds like you've created a functional makeup remover/cleanser, but the texture on the skin isn't quite right – specifically, it's too sticky during massage despite having a good pour viscosity. This is a common challenge when balancing different texture requirements.

Your observation that using 6% SugarThick (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) might be too high is likely correct. SugarThick is typically recommended at 1-5% for thickening surfactant systems. While it effectively increases viscosity, using it at higher concentrations can sometimes lead to a sticky or draggy feel on the skin.

Fixing Your Current Batch:

Yes, you can absolutely adjust your existing formula. To reduce the stickiness, you can dilute the batch by adding more water. To help maintain the performance and balance of the cleanser, you might also consider adding proportional amounts of your other main ingredients (Cocowash, Makeupwash, AminoWash, Glycerin) along with the water. Add gradually and test the texture on your skin until you achieve the desired slip without excessive stickiness.

Exploring Alternative Thickeners:

For future batches, if you want to avoid the stickiness experienced with SugarThick at the desired viscosity, you can consider alternative thickeners like ClearClean or EasyThick.

ClearClean (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate): This is often recommended for clear surfactant systems and may provide a less sticky feel. The staff recommended starting with 5% ClearClean in your formula. Your surfactants (Cocowash, Makeupwash, AminoWash) are in a pH range (5-7) where ClearClean should work well for thickening and potentially clarity. However, clarity with multiple surfactants isn't guaranteed and requires testing. ClearClean requires warming (50-70°C) and gentle mixing (mechanical mixing is often needed) with the water and surfactants for proper thickening and clarity. Sometimes, adjusting the pH upwards slightly with Triethanolamine before bringing it back down with Citric Acid is necessary for optimal results.
EasyThick (PEG-150 Distearate): This is another option, used similarly to SugarThick (dissolved in heated water). The amount needed depends on the specific surfactants, but a starting point of 3-5% might be suitable for a slightly viscous, non-watery texture that still allows for easy massage. Like SugarThick, using too much EasyThick can also result in stickiness.

Mixing Considerations:

For ClearClean, hand mixing might not be enough. Gentle mechanical mixing (like with a food mixer on a low speed) is often necessary. The recommended method is to combine water, all surfactants, and ClearClean, then warm gently and mix. This helps minimize foaming while ensuring proper incorporation.

For EasyThick, dissolving it in heated water before adding to the main formula and mixing gently is typically sufficient.

Choosing the Right Thickener:

If achieving a clear product is important and you are willing to follow a slightly more involved mixing process, ClearClean is a strong candidate. If simplicity in mixing is key and slight translucency is acceptable, EasyThick used at a lower percentage than you tried with SugarThick might work, but you'll need to test the percentage carefully to avoid stickiness.

Ultimately, finding the perfect balance of pour viscosity and skin slip will require some experimentation with the percentage of the chosen thickener in your specific formula.