Adjusting Your Vitamin C E Ferulic Serum Formula to 20% L-Ascorbic Acid

Hello! It's great that you're experimenting with adjusting the formula based on your experience with Timeless and Skinceuticals products. Your goal of increasing the L-Ascorbic Acid concentration is achievable, but it requires careful consideration of the formula's components.

Addressing the Cloudiness Issue (Mixing Phases A and B)

Regarding the cloudiness you observed when mixing phases A and B (before adding Vitamin C), this is likely related to the emulsifier, Laureth-23, and the mixing process. Laureth-23 is a solid emulsifier that needs to be heated and fully dissolved in the oil phase (or the phase containing oil-soluble components) before mixing with the water phase. The staff's suggestion to gently warm the mixture might help resolve this cloudiness by ensuring the Laureth-23 is properly incorporated. Make sure you are heating phase B (containing Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Laureth-23, and Vitamin E) sufficiently (60-70°C as per Laureth-23 description) to melt and dissolve the Laureth-23 before combining it with phase A.

Increasing L-Ascorbic Acid to 20%

Now, about increasing the L-Ascorbic Acid concentration from 15% to 20%: Simply replacing 5g of water with 5g of L-Ascorbic Acid might not be the best approach on its own. L-Ascorbic Acid has limited solubility in water, and increasing its concentration requires careful consideration of the solvent system to ensure it fully dissolves and remains stable. The original formula uses Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, and Glycerin as co-solvents, which help dissolve the L-Ascorbic Acid and other ingredients like Ferulic Acid.

To increase L-Ascorbic Acid to 20%, you will need to reduce the total amount of other ingredients by 5g. While reducing water is necessary, you might also need to slightly adjust the proportions of the co-solvents (Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin) to maintain solubility and stability. A common approach is to reduce the water and potentially some of the glycols proportionally.

Here's a suggested adjustment to the formula to achieve 20% L-Ascorbic Acid (total 100g): For a 100g batch:

• Phase A:
  • Water: 38.7g (Reduced from 43.7g)
  • Triethanolamine: 2.5g
  • Ferulic Acid: 0.5g
  • Panthenol: 0.5g
• Phase B:
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 20g
  • Propylene Glycol: 10g
  • Glycerin: 3g
  • Laureth-23: 3g
  • d-Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1g
• Phase C:
  • L-Ascorbic Acid: 20g (Increased from 15g)
• Phase D:
  • Hyaluronic Standard: 0.3g
  • Hyaluronic Nano: 0.5g

Total: 100g

Important Considerations:

• Solubility: Ensure the 20g of L-Ascorbic Acid fully dissolves in the adjusted solvent system. You might need to gently warm the mixture (below 70°C) to aid dissolution, as mentioned in the L-Ascorbic Acid description.
• pH: L-Ascorbic Acid is most stable and effective at a pH between 2.0 and 4.0, ideally around 3.5. You will likely need to adjust the pH after adding the L-Ascorbic Acid. Triethanolamine is used for pH adjustment in the original formula, but you might need a different pH adjuster or a different amount to reach the desired pH range with 20% L-Ascorbic Acid. Always check and adjust the final pH.
• Stability: Higher concentrations of L-Ascorbic Acid can be less stable. Packaging (airless, opaque bottles) and storage (refrigeration) are crucial for maintaining the potency of the serum. The presence of Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E helps improve stability.
• Skin Irritation: While you tolerated 20% Vitamin C from Timeless, homemade formulations can sometimes differ. Start with a patch test.

The cloudiness issue with phases A and B should be addressed first by ensuring proper heating and mixing of the Laureth-23. Once that is resolved, you can attempt to incorporate the 20% L-Ascorbic Acid, carefully monitoring solubility and adjusting pH.

It's great that you enjoy the process of making your own cosmetics! Experimentation is key, but always proceed with caution and test your creations.