Adjusting Whitening Serum/Cream Formula for Normal Skin (Dullness, Dark Spots, Texture)
Question
I am developing a skin brightening formula targeting dullness, dark spots, acne marks, and light freckles for normal to slightly oily skin. I initially planned to use the following ingredients:
- Azelaic Acid
- Alpha Arbutin 2%
- Tranexamic Acid 3%
- Safe B3 5%
- GlucoBright 4%
- 4MSK 1%
- Vit B5 1%
- Jojoba Oil
- Propylene Glycol
- Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor)
- Isopropyl Palmitate
- Water (remaining percentage)
I have the following questions regarding this formula:
- Do the active ingredients (Alpha Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, Safe B3, GlucoBright, 4MSK, Vit B5, Azelaic Acid) overlap or are the percentages inappropriate?
- What percentage of Jojoba Oil should I use?
- What percentages should I use for Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor), and Isopropyl Palmitate?
- I want a thick but non-sticky texture. How can I achieve this?
- Should I use Pro-polymer or another ingredient as a thickener?
Answer
Hello,
Regarding your request to adjust the formulation for skin brightening, reducing acne marks, dark spots, and light freckles for normal skin that appears dull and slightly oily, here is the revised formulation based on the staff's recommendations:
The staff has suggested removing Azelaic Acid as it can make the formula difficult to thicken, especially for beginners. They also recommended removing Jojoba Oil and Isopropyl Palmitate to avoid a sticky feeling, as the other ingredients should provide sufficient moisture for normal skin. You can add oil later if needed.
The revised formula is as follows:
- Alpha Arbutin: 1% (Reduced from 2%, staff suggests combining with other whitening agents)
- Tranexamic Acid: 3%
- Safe B3 (Niacinamide): 5%
- GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
- 4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate): 1%
- Vit B5 (Panthenol): 1%
- Butylene Glycol: 5% (Replaces Propylene Glycol)
- Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor): 5%
- Water: Remaining percentage
Additional Recommended Ingredients:
- Preservative: Add a preservative such as Phenoxyethanol SA (1%) or Mild Preserved Eco (1%).
- Thickener/Cream Maker: To achieve a thick but non-sticky cream texture, add a thickener/cream maker. Options include Light Cream Maker (1.5%), Pro Polymer (1%), or Satin Cream Maker (1.5%).
- Additional Whitening Agent: The staff recommends adding Activated Resorcinol (1%). Dissolve it in the Butylene Glycol portion of the formula before adding to the main mixture.
Answers to your specific questions:
- Active ingredients (1-6) overlap or inappropriate percentages: The staff reduced Alpha Arbutin to 1% and suggested adding Activated Resorcinol for enhanced whitening. The other active ingredient percentages you listed (Tranexamic Acid 3%, Safe B3 5%, GlucoBright 4%, 4MSK 1%) were kept the same in the revised formula. Azelaic Acid was removed due to formulation difficulty.
- Jojoba Oil (8) percentage: Jojoba Oil was removed from the revised formula to prevent stickiness.
- Propylene (9), Dimethicone (10), Isopropyl palmitate (11) percentages: Propylene Glycol is replaced by Butylene Glycol at 5%. Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor) is suggested at 5%. Isopropyl Palmitate was removed.
- Desired texture (thick but not sticky): Removing the oils and using a recommended thickener/cream maker (like Light Cream Maker, Pro Polymer, or Satin Cream Maker) at the suggested percentages should help achieve a thick but non-sticky texture.
- Thickener choice (Pro-polymer or something else): The staff suggested Pro Polymer (1%) as an option, along with Light Cream Maker (1.5%) and Satin Cream Maker (1.5%). You can choose one of these based on your preference for the final texture.
This revised formula focuses on your concerns regarding whitening, dark spots, and texture while simplifying the process for a beginner.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Light Cream Maker™
Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Satin Cream Maker™
Trans-White™
Butylene Glycol
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)