Advice on DIY Serum Formulation with Multiple Actives and Nano Silver

Asked by: tinoi_akiko On: January 13, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have no experience in product manufacturing or formulation but want to learn. I need advice on formulating a serum for personal use.

I'm unsure if the amount of active ingredients is too high. Do I need to adjust the product's pH and stability?

Will Silver affect other ingredients and reduce their effectiveness?

I would like advice for a serum targeting anti-aging, oil control, anti-inflammation, and moisturization. Here is the drafted formula:

  1. Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland): 5%
  2. Ethoxydiglycol: 1%
  3. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): 3%
  4. Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder, Timed-Release): 4%
  5. VersaMoist™: 2%
  6. Super-HYA™: 0.05%
  7. Pure-Bakuchiol™ (Natural Retinol, 99% Pure): 0.5%
  8. Nano Gold: 1%
  9. Protec™ UV: 0.03%
  10. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: 10%
  11. Protec™ OX: 0.01%
  12. Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5): 3%
  13. Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000): 3%
  14. Saccharomyces Lysate Extract: 1%
  15. beta glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract): 3%
  16. Glycosaminoglycans Complex: 3%
  17. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate: 3%
  18. Repair Activator™ Liquid (Bifida Ferment Lysate): 10%
  19. Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate: 1%
  20. Calcium Pantothenate: 3%
  21. 20nm Silver Pure™: 1%
  22. Ceramide Complex (Water Dispersible Powder): 1%
  23. Zinc PCA: 1%
  24. Glycerin 99.5%: 5%
  25. AQUA: 35.41%

Answer

Hello! It's great that you're interested in learning about formulating serums for personal use. The formula you've drafted is quite complex with a large number of active ingredients aimed at anti-aging, oil control, anti-inflammation, and moisturization.

Here is some advice and answers to your questions:

1. Are there too many active ingredients?
Your proposed formula contains a high number and concentration of various active ingredients. While combining multiple actives is possible, it presents significant challenges, especially for beginners, due to:

  • Compatibility: Some actives may not be compatible when combined, potentially leading to precipitation, discoloration, or reduced efficacy.
  • Stability: Each active has different optimal conditions (e.g., pH, temperature, light/air exposure) for stability and efficacy. Making all of them stable simultaneously in one formula is very complex.
  • Irritation: Using many potent actives at high concentrations simultaneously can increase the risk of skin irritation.

For a beginner, starting with a simpler formula focusing on 2-3 key concerns and selecting fewer, well-understood, and compatible active ingredients at recommended usage levels would be much easier to manage and understand.

2. Does the product's pH and stability need adjustment?
Yes, pH and stability are absolutely critical in cosmetic formulation. pH must be adjusted and controlled, and stability needs thorough testing.

  • Many actives in your formula work best and are stable at different pH levels. For example, Salicylic Acid (BHA) typically requires a low pH (around 3-4) for optimal exfoliation, while Niacinamide, Peptides, and most Ferment Lysates are generally stable and effective in a neutral to slightly acidic range (around 4-7).
  • Finding a suitable pH balance for all ingredients in such a complex formula is very difficult and will likely require pH adjusters and buffering agents to maintain the desired pH range consistently.
  • Overall formula stability considers pH, temperature, light, and the compatibility of all ingredients. This requires stability testing under various conditions (e.g., accelerated aging with heat), which is challenging for home formulators.

3. Will Silver affect other ingredients and reduce their effectiveness?
Yes, Nano Silver can potentially interact with other ingredients in the formula, particularly certain organic compounds like peptides or some extracts. These interactions can potentially reduce the efficacy of the Nano Silver itself or other actives, cause precipitation, or lead to other changes in the formula. Including Nano Silver in a formula with numerous complex actives is a challenge that requires careful consideration of compatibility and stability.

Additional Recommendations:

  • Research Each Ingredient: Before combining ingredients, thoroughly research the technical data sheet (TDS) for each one to understand its optimal pH range, solubility, handling precautions, and compatibility information with other ingredients.
  • Start Simple: Consider beginning with a formula containing fewer active ingredients. You could focus on anti-aging and hydration, or oil control and anti-inflammation, selecting 2-3 key actives that truly interest you.
  • Hygiene: When formulating at home, strict attention to the cleanliness of equipment and the environment is crucial to prevent microbial contamination.
  • Testing: If you create a formula, perform basic stability observations yourself (e.g., store samples at different temperatures and note any changes). Most importantly, always patch test the formula on a small area of skin before applying it widely.

Your drafted formula includes many good ingredients that align with your desired properties, such as:

  • Anti-aging: Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), Pure-Bakuchiol™, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pep®-Coll, Pal-GHK/Pal-GQPR (Matrixyl 3000), Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate), Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate, Glycosaminoglycans Complex
  • Oil Control: Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, Zinc PCA
  • Anti-inflammation: Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), beta glucan, Pure-Bakuchiol™, Zinc PCA
  • Moisturization: Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), VersaMoist™, Super-HYA™, beta glucan, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, Calcium Pantothenate, Ceramide Complex, Glycerin

Selecting and using a subset of these actives at appropriate and compatible concentrations would be a good starting point for developing your serum formula.

If you have more questions about any specific ingredient or need advice on selecting actives for a simpler formula, feel free to ask!