Advice on Skin Care Formula and AHA Exfoliation Formula

Based on your questions and the information from the staff:

Regarding Your Proposed Formula

Your formula contains several beneficial ingredients for skin brightening and texture improvement:

• Tranexamic Acid (5%): Known for reducing melanin production and helping with melasma.
• Activated Resorcinol (1%): Effective in skin brightening by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Note that the recommended maximum usage for leave-on products is typically 1% due to potential irritation. Using an anti-irritant like Natural Bisabolol might be beneficial.
• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) (2%): Helps reduce redness, dark spots, improves skin barrier, and controls oiliness.
• N-acetyl Glucosamine (4%): Works well with Niacinamide for whitening and also helps stimulate Hyaluronic Acid production for moisture.
• Silky Serum Base (30%): This base helps create a light, smooth serum texture.

The combination of these ingredients is generally compatible and targets concerns like dark spots, uneven tone, and skin texture. The staff confirmed that Silky Serum Base can be used in this type of formula.

Considerations:

• Stability and pH: Ensure the final pH of the formula is suitable for the ingredients (e.g., Activated Resorcinol works best around pH 4.5-5.5, Niacinamide and N-acetyl Glucosamine are stable in a wider range). Adding 1% NaCl or Magnesium Sulfate as suggested by the staff can help improve the stability of formulas using Silky Serum Base.
• Preservation: Since the formula contains a high percentage of water, a suitable preservative system is necessary to prevent microbial growth.
• Irritation: With active ingredients like Activated Resorcinol and potentially high concentrations of others, it's wise to consider adding a soothing agent like Natural Bisabolol.

AHA Exfoliation Formula

For accelerating skin cell turnover, Glycolic Acid is highly recommended by the staff as it has the smallest molecule size among AHAs, allowing for better skin penetration.

Here are example formulas based on the staff's recommendations:

Example 1: Basic AHA Gel

• Glycolic Acid (e.g., Glycopure™ or Ampho-Glycolic™) 10%
• Pro Polymer™ 2-3% (adjust for desired thickness)
• Water (remaining percentage)
• Preservative (according to the chosen type)

Example 2: AHA Gel with Silicone Gel (for a softer, silicone-like feel)

• Glycolic Acid (e.g., Glycopure™ or Ampho-Glycolic™) 10%
• Pro Polymer™ 2-3% (adjust for desired thickness)
• Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky) 10-15%
• Water (remaining percentage)
• Preservative (according to the chosen type)

Using Silky Serum Base in AHA Formula

As discussed, you can also use Silky Serum Base in an AHA formula. A suggested ratio is:

• Silky Serum Base 30%
• Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky) 20%
• Water 40%
• Glycolic Acid (e.g., Glycopure™ or Ampho-Glycolic™) 10%

Regarding your question about using just Silky Serum Base, Glycolic Acid, and Water without Silicone Gel: The staff explained that while possible, the amount of water significantly affects the thickness when using Silky Serum Base. Adding Silicone Gel helps achieve a thicker consistency without needing a very high water percentage, which can sometimes feel too watery upon application. So, Silicone Gel helps adjust the texture.

Important Considerations for AHA Formulas:

• Concentration and pH: For consumer products, the FDA generally allows AHA concentrations up to 10% with a pH not lower than 3.5. The effectiveness of Glycolic Acid is highly dependent on the pH, being most effective at lower pH levels (below 4.0). Always check and adjust the final pH of your formula.
• Preservation: A preservative is essential for water-based formulas.
• Sun Protection: AHA increases skin sensitivity to the sun. Always use sunscreen when using products containing AHA.

Hopefully, this information is helpful for developing your formulas!