Advice on Formulations

Hello! I completely understand that trying to formulate your own recipes for the first time can bring up many questions. Please don't worry, I'm happy to provide further guidance to help you achieve the most suitable and satisfying formulas.

Based on your questions, the information you provided, and the feedback from C7 and the MySkinRecipes staff, here is a summary and advice for each of your formulas:

1. Daytime Formula (for husband)

• Your Proposed Formula: GlucoBright 4%, Azelaic Acid 10%, Vitamin B3 2%, Water Lock 2%, Bisabolol 1%, Beta Glucan 10%, AminoSilk 3% in Pure Aloe Vera Gel.
• Advice:
  • This formula contains several good ingredients for brightening and reducing irritation.
  • Azelaic Acid 10% has a relatively high exfoliating effect. According to the Staff's advice, sun exposure should be avoided when using it. Therefore, this formula might not be suitable for daytime use if he is regularly exposed to strong sunlight. If you intend to use it during the day, you must apply a high-SPF sunscreen and reapply diligently. Alternatively, consider reducing the concentration or using it only at night.
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) concentration can be increased to 4-5% to enhance its effectiveness in brightening and reducing dark spots, as suggested by the Staff.
  • Water Lock helps to form a film on the skin to reduce water loss. Staff recommended considering the user's skin type. If the skin is rather oily, it might not be necessary to include it, or the amount can be reduced.
  • Beta Glucan 10% is a high concentration, which is excellent for helping to reduce irritation and strengthen the skin barrier. It is suitable for skin that might be sensitive to Azelaic Acid or skin damaged by the sun.
  • AminoSilk helps to improve the texture, making it smoother and easier to apply.
  • Additional suggestion from C7: Adding Tranexamic Acid 3% would directly enhance the treatment of melasma, and adding Allantoin and Natural Betaine would provide good basic anti-irritation and hydration.
• Summary: This formula is usable, but be cautious about sun exposure due to Azelaic Acid and consider adjusting the concentration of Vitamin B3 and Water Lock based on skin type. If you want to boost the melasma treatment and reduce irritation, you might consider adding Tranexamic Acid, Allantoin, and Natural Betaine as suggested by C7.

2. Nighttime Formulas A, B, and C

• Staff's Recommendation: Staff suggested combining Nighttime Formulas A and B into a single formula for convenience and cost-effectiveness. The ingredients in formulas A and B work well together.
• Nighttime Formula A (Revised based on Staff Advice):
  • Original Ingredients: Alpha Arbutin 2%, DMAE 4%, PhytoHormone™ 5%, L-Tyrosine 2%, Vitamin B5 5%, Bisabolol 1%, LipidSoft 5% in Pure Aloe Vera Gel.
  • Question about LipidSoft vs AminoSilk: You asked if you should change LipidSoft 5% to AminoSilk 3% for a lighter texture. Staff explained that LipidSoft is an ester/oil-like emollient that helps coat the skin and provides a light feel, while AminoSilk is a powder that provides slip to the texture. If you want a lighter and smoother texture, AminoSilk will help with slip. However, if you prefer a slightly coated feel and the lightness of an oil-like substance, LipidSoft is suitable. The choice depends on your personal preference for texture. Staff also suggested adding MatteSilica and AminoSilk to adjust the texture to be lighter and smoother if you dislike the stickiness from DMAE.
  • Question about PhytoHormone™: You believe that hormones might help with skin regeneration for people over 40. Staff did not give specific feedback on PhytoHormone™ but emphasized that good and inexpensive basic ingredients like Vitamin B3 and GlucoBright also provide good results and should be considered for inclusion in anti-aging formulas to make them more complete and address multiple concerns.
  • Question about DMAE and Bisabolol: You are concerned that DMAE might cause allergic reactions and added Bisabolol. Korea-kon and Staff clearly explained that DMAE might cause "irritation," not an "allergic reaction," and Bisabolol is effective in reducing irritation, which is correct. However, if a true allergic reaction occurs, you must stop using that ingredient. Adding Bisabolol is a good preventive measure to reduce the chance of irritation.
• Nighttime Formula B:
  • Original Ingredients: Argireline 10%, Matrixyl 3000 8% in Pure Aloe Vera Gel.
  • Question about Adding Emollients: You asked if you should add emollients like LipidSoft or AminoSilk to Formula B. Staff mentioned that adding emollients depends on your preference for texture. Emollients make the formula smoother and easier to spread. If you are used to and like the heavy, sticky texture like LA MER, you don't need to add emollients. However, if you want it to spread more easily, you can add them.
• Nighttime Formula C (for mother):
  • Original Ingredients: Repair Activator 10%, Alpha Arbutin 2%, Apple Stem Cell 5% in Pure Aloe Vera Gel.
  • Staff's Recommendation: Staff recommended adding good and comprehensive basic ingredients as well, such as Vitamin B3 and GlucoBright, to enhance brightening effectiveness. If the budget is a concern, you might consider slightly reducing Repair Activator or Apple Stem Cell to accommodate the basic ingredients. Furthermore, Staff emphasized the importance of moisture for mature skin and suggested adding a moisturizer like Vitamin B5, MOIST72, or Ceramide Complex (at least one) if your mother's skin is dry or dehydrated. However, if her skin is oily, you don't need to include all of them.

3. Acne Toner Formula

• Your Proposed Formula: GlucoBright 4%, Vitamin B3 2%, MOIST72 2% in Time-Released BHA Toner.
• Question about MOIST72 and Peeling: You added MOIST72 to help with peeling from BHA. Staff confirmed that MOIST72 helps to continuously moisturize the skin, which strengthens the skin and can help reduce peeling from BHA use. Therefore, adding MOIST72 is beneficial.
• Staff's Caution: Staff emphasized that this BHA Toner formula is suitable for clogged acne only. If you have other types of acne, such as allergic acne or fungal acne, BHA will not help and might unnecessarily irritate the skin. GlucoBright and MOIST72 do not directly treat acne. Vitamin B3 might help with mild acne.

4. Fragrance Recommendations

• Staff's Advice: Staff recommended that generally, not using fragrances or essential oils is the best option because they do not directly benefit the skin and can increase the chance of allergic reactions, especially chemical fragrances.
• If You Want to Add Scent: If you wish to add scent for a more pleasant user experience, Staff did not recommend specific scents. However, from the available products, you can consider Essential Oils, which are natural essential oils, or Fragrance Oils, which are synthetic scents. Essential Oils often have additional aromatherapy properties but might have usage limitations and higher prices than Fragrance Oil.
• Examples of Interesting Scents (for testing):
  • Bergamot Essential Oil: Fresh, slightly sweet citrus scent, helps to feel relaxed and refreshed.
  • Lavender Fragrance Oil: Popular lavender scent, gives a calming, relaxing feeling.
  • Jasmine Fragrance Oil: Sweet, floral jasmine scent, gives a luxurious and relaxing feeling.
  • Rose Water (Fragrance Oil): Rose water scent, provides a fresh and gentle feeling.
  • You can order small sizes to test the scents before deciding to use them in your actual formulas.

I hope this advice is helpful for adjusting your formulas. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!