Aftershave Formulation: Mixing, Ratios, and Alcohol Type

Asked by: waris.dds On: February 24, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have purchased the following ingredients from your store to make an aftershave:

  • Witch Hazel (Alcohol-Free)
  • Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
  • Brilliant Blue color
  • Fragrance
  • Distilled Water
  • Propylene Glycol
  • Alcohol
  • Tween 80 (as Emulsifier)

I would like to request advice on:

  1. How to mix these ingredients together to prevent phase separation.
  2. Recommended proportions/ratios for each ingredient.
  3. Which type of alcohol (Ethanol or Isopropyl Alcohol) is better for a facial product, and what is the appropriate usage percentage to avoid drying the skin while providing a cooling sensation?

Answer

How to Make Aftershave: Mixing Instructions and Ingredient Proportions

Thank you for your inquiry. Based on the ingredients you have purchased from our store - Witch Hazel (Alcohol-Free), Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Brilliant Blue color, fragrance, distilled water, Propylene Glycol, and Tween 80 - you can indeed create a soothing aftershave. You also have alcohol, which is a key component for the cooling effect.

Here's a guide on how to mix these ingredients, recommended proportions, and advice on alcohol type:

Understanding Your Ingredients:

  • Distilled Water: The main base of your aftershave.
  • Alcohol (Ethanol or Isopropyl Alcohol): Provides a cooling sensation and acts as a mild antiseptic.
  • Witch Hazel (Alcohol-Free): Offers soothing and astringent properties, helping to calm the skin after shaving.
  • Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): A humectant and moisturizer that helps to hydrate the skin and support its natural barrier.
  • Propylene Glycol: Another humectant that helps retain moisture and can act as a solvent for other ingredients like fragrance and color.
  • Fragrance: Adds a pleasant scent.
  • Tween 80 (Polysorbate 80): An emulsifier that helps disperse the oil-based fragrance evenly throughout the water/alcohol base, preventing separation.
  • Brilliant Blue: Provides color.

Recommended Proportions (as a starting point):

These percentages are general guidelines for a typical aftershave lotion/splash. You can adjust them based on your preference, especially the alcohol and fragrance levels. Water will be the balance up to 100%.

  • Alcohol (Ethanol recommended): 20 - 40%
  • Witch Hazel (Alcohol-Free): 5 - 10%
  • Panthenol: 0.5 - 2%
  • Propylene Glycol: 1 - 5%
  • Fragrance: 0.1 - 1%
  • Tween 80: 1 - 4% (Use enough to emulsify the fragrance, typically 1:1 to 4:1 ratio of Tween 80 to Fragrance)
  • Brilliant Blue: Trace amount (as needed for color)
  • Distilled Water: Up to 100%

Mixing Instructions to Prevent Separation:

The key to preventing separation, especially with the fragrance, is properly using the Tween 80.

  1. Combine Water-Soluble Ingredients: In a clean container, combine the Distilled Water, Alcohol, Witch Hazel, Panthenol, and Propylene Glycol. Stir gently until everything is well mixed.
  2. Prepare Fragrance Phase: In a separate small container, mix your Fragrance with the Tween 80. Stir thoroughly until the fragrance is fully dispersed in the Tween 80. This step is crucial for emulsification.
  3. Combine Phases: Slowly add the Fragrance/Tween 80 mixture from step 2 into the main water/alcohol mixture from step 1 while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until the mixture is clear and homogeneous.
  4. Add Color (Optional): If you want to add color, dissolve a tiny amount of Brilliant Blue in a few drops of distilled water or Propylene Glycol first. Add this colored solution drop by drop to your aftershave mixture until you achieve the desired color. Stir well after adding.
  5. Final Check: Ensure the mixture is clear and there are no oil droplets separating. If it appears cloudy, you might need to add a tiny bit more Tween 80 (pre-mixed with a small amount of the base liquid) and stir again.
  6. Bottle: Pour your finished aftershave into a clean bottle.

Choosing the Right Alcohol (Ethanol vs. Isopropyl Alcohol):

For a facial product like aftershave, Ethanol (Ethyl Alcohol) is generally preferred over Isopropyl Alcohol.

  • Ethanol: Commonly used in cosmetics. It provides the desired cooling sensation through evaporation and has mild antiseptic properties. It is generally less drying and irritating to the skin compared to Isopropyl Alcohol when used at appropriate concentrations.
  • Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA): While also a solvent and antiseptic, IPA can be more drying and potentially more irritating to the skin, especially on the face after shaving when the skin can be sensitive.

Therefore, using Ethanol is recommended for a more comfortable aftershave experience.

Appropriate Alcohol Concentration for Facial Use:

An alcohol concentration between 20% and 40% is typical for aftershaves.

  • A higher concentration (closer to 40%) will provide a stronger cooling sensation and more antiseptic effect but can also be more drying.
  • A lower concentration (closer to 20%) will be less drying but offer less cooling and antiseptic action.

Given that you are including humectants like Panthenol and Propylene Glycol, you can likely use a concentration in the higher end of this range (e.g., 30-35%) to get a good cooling effect without excessive dryness. Always test the final product on a small area of skin first.

By following these steps and guidelines, you should be able to create a stable and effective aftershave formulation.