AHA 8% + BHA 5% Serum/Gel Formulation and Instructions

Asked by: manut262 On: August 02, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please provide a formula and instructions for making a serum or gel containing AHA 8% and BHA 5%? I would like to use `Salicylic Acid EZ™` for the BHA component to ensure solubility and prevent precipitation. The total batch size should be approximately 1 liter (1000g). Please include detailed steps and necessary precautions.

Answer

AHA 8% + BHA 5% Serum/Gel Formula (Total 1000g)

  • Glycolic Acid (Glycopure™): 80 g (8%)
  • Salicylic Acid EZ™: 250 g (25%, provides 5% active Salicylic Acid)
  • Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC): 10 g (1%) - Choose a suitable viscosity grade, e.g., 2800mPa.s
  • Sodium Hyaluronate (Super-HYA™): 2 g (0.2%)
  • Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): 8 g (0.8%)
  • Ethylhexylglycerin: 2 g (0.2%) - Used in combination with Phenoxyethanol as a broad-spectrum preservative system.
  • Sodium Hydroxide solution (e.g., 10% or 20% solution): Amount needed to adjust pH to 3.5-4.0
  • Purified Water: Add to make a total of 1000 g

Instructions:

  1. Weigh the purified water into a beaker.
  2. Add the Salicylic Acid EZ™ to the water and stir until it is completely dissolved and the solution is clear.
  3. Add the Glycolic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate to the water mixture and stir until they are fully dissolved.
  4. Slowly disperse the Hydroxyethylcellulose powder into the mixture while stirring continuously to avoid clumps. Heat the mixture to approximately 70°C and continue stirring until the Hydroxyethylcellulose is fully dissolved and a smooth gel texture forms.
  5. Remove from heat and let the gel cool down.
  6. Once cooled, add the Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin to the gel and stir until evenly distributed.
  7. Measure the pH of the serum using a calibrated pH meter or high-quality pH strips.
  8. Carefully add the Sodium Hydroxide solution drop by drop while continuously stirring. After each addition, check the pH. Continue adding until the pH is adjusted to the target range of 3.5 to 4.0. Precise pH adjustment is critical for the efficacy and safety of this product.
  9. Add enough purified water to reach a total weight of 1000 g.
  10. Mix thoroughly to ensure homogeneity and package the serum into appropriate containers.

Important Notes:

  • As the staff mentioned, a serum with these concentrations of AHA and BHA is very potent and is typically used for professional peeling procedures under the supervision of a medical professional. It may be too strong for regular home use.
  • Accurate measurement of ingredients and precise pH adjustment are essential for the safety and effectiveness of the final product.
  • Always perform a small test batch and stability testing before making a large quantity.
  • Ensure all your equipment is clean and sanitized to prevent microbial contamination.