AHA/BHA Formulation Issues: Odor, Foaming, and Ingredient Alternatives

Question

Based on a previous attempt to formulate a product combining AHA (Pumpkin Renew) and BHA (Salicylic Acid EZ), I have several questions: Is it acceptable to combine AHA (Pumpkin Renew 4%) and BHA (Salicylic Acid EZ 5% (equivalent to BHA 1%)) in a single formulation with Vitamin B3 5%, B5 3%, Propolymer 1%, and the rest water? Alternatively, would separating the application into a BHA toner (e.g., using Salicylic Time Release) followed by an AHA gel (e.g., using Pumpkin Renew with B vitamins) in the evening be a better approach to manage irritation? Can other AHAs like Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid be used instead of Pumpkin Renew in the AHA gel formulation with B vitamins? I experienced excessive foaming when adding Salicylic Acid EZ. What might be the cause, and how can I reduce foam in the finished product? The product I made has a bad smell. Can I add ingredients other than fragrance to adjust the smell, such as organic extracts like green tea, Licorice, Centella Asiatica, or ginseng? Does MySkinRecipes sell Korean ginseng?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Re: Aha pumpkin renew + bha salicylic acid ez

Regarding your questions about combining AHA (Pumpkin Renew) and BHA (Salicylic Acid EZ), alternative formulations, foaming issues, and scent:

Combining AHA and BHA: The staff mentioned that while separating AHA and BHA is a recommendation, it's not strictly necessary, and many commercial products combine them. You can try your proposed combined formulation (Pumpkin Renew 4%, Salicylic Acid EZ 5% (equivalent to BHA 1%), Vitamin B3 5%, B5 3%, Propolymer 1%, rest water). However, you should test it on your skin and adjust the concentration, frequency of use, or irritating ingredients if you experience excessive irritation.
Separating into Toner and Gel: Applying a BHA toner (like Salicylic Time Release) followed by an AHA gel (like Pumpkin Renew with B vitamins) sequentially in the evening might help manage potential irritation compared to a single combined product. The staff did not explicitly confirm this reduces "strength" but suggested adjusting usage based on irritation.
Alternative AHA for Gel: Yes, you can use Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid instead of Pumpkin Renew in the AHA gel formulation with B vitamins. The choice depends on the specific efficacy you desire from the AHA. The staff did not state which is "better" overall.
Foaming Issue: The staff believes the excessive foaming you experienced when adding Salicylic Acid EZ was likely due to vigorous stirring. Salicylic Acid EZ dissolves easily in water, especially when warmed. They recommend gently swirling instead of stirring vigorously. Foaming does not reduce the product's efficacy but can make it less pleasant to use. To reduce foam in the finished product, you can gently warm it to 60-70°C, stir gently, and let it sit for 3-5 days.
Adding Natural Extracts for Scent: According to the staff, only fragrance should be used to adjust the smell of the product. Natural extracts like green tea, licorice, centella asiatica, or ginseng cannot be used for this purpose.
Korean Ginseng Availability: MySkinRecipes does not sell Korean Ginseng.