Body Scrub Formulation Feedback

Thank you for sharing your body scrub formulation. Based on your desired outcome of a gel-cream texture for exfoliation, brightening, and moisturizing, here is an assessment of your current formula and recommendations for improvement:

Your current formula includes ingredients for both gel and cream textures, but it is missing a key component: an emulsifier. Cetearyl Alcohol acts as a thickener and stabilizer in the oil phase but cannot effectively bind the oil and water phases together to form a stable emulsion on its own. Without a proper emulsifier, your formula will likely separate.

To achieve a stable gel-cream texture that can effectively suspend the scrub beads and deliver the oil and water-soluble ingredients, you need to add an O/W (Oil-in-Water) emulsifier. Additionally, the concentration of Pro Polymer might need adjustment to ensure proper gel formation and bead suspension, especially considering the presence of electrolytes like Disodium EDTA.

Here is a suggested revised formula concept and manufacturing process:

Revised Formula Concept

• Phase A (Water Phase): DI Water, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Pro Polymer
• Phase B (Oil Phase): Mineral oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, O/W Emulsifier (e.g., Ceteareth-20)
• Phase C (Cool Down Phase): AHA, Phenoxyethanol SA, Silicone Quick-Cond, Apricot scrub beads, pH Adjuster (e.g., Sodium Hydroxide solution)

Example Percentage Adjustments (Illustrative):

• DI Water: ~50.6%
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
• Glycerin: 5%
• Pro Polymer: 2% (Adjust based on desired viscosity and bead suspension)
• Mineral oil: 15%
• Cetearyl Alcohol: 10%
• Ceteareth-20: 5% (Example emulsifier and usage rate)
• AHA: 5%
• Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
• Silicone Quick-Cond: 2%
• Apricot scrub beads: 5%
• pH Adjuster (e.g., 10% NaOH solution): q.s. to pH 3.5-4.0

Suggested Manufacturing Process

1. Combine Phase A ingredients (except Pro Polymer initially, or disperse Pro Polymer in Glycerin first). Heat Phase A to 70-75°C.
2. Combine Phase B ingredients. Heat Phase B to 70-75°C, ensuring all solids are melted.
3. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A while homogenizing or stirring vigorously to form an emulsion. Maintain mixing for 10-15 minutes.
4. Cool the emulsion while stirring gently.
5. When the temperature is below 40°C, add Phase C ingredients one by one, mixing well after each addition: AHA, Phenoxyethanol SA, Silicone Quick-Cond.
6. Add the apricot scrub beads and mix gently to disperse evenly. Avoid high shear mixing.
7. Check and adjust the pH to 3.5-4.0 for optimal AHA efficacy and safety.

Regarding the usage method, rubbing for 15 minutes with a scrub containing both physical exfoliants (beads) and chemical exfoliants (AHA) might be too long and could cause skin irritation. We recommend starting with a shorter scrubbing time (e.g., 1-5 minutes) and adjusting based on skin sensitivity.

By incorporating a suitable emulsifier and following a standard O/W emulsion process, you should be able to achieve a stable gel-cream AHA body scrub with the desired properties.