AHA/PHA Solutions for Melasma Treatment

Asked by: wrasbhisa.a On: July 10, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to know the mixing ratio of AHA with water for treating melasma.

MySkinRecipes sells several AHA products, and I'm not sure which one is the most effective. Could you please recommend one?

Answer

Gentle Exfoliation Options for Melasma

For addressing melasma, gentle exfoliation can be beneficial. While traditional AHAs like Glycolic Acid are commonly used, there are also gentler alternatives available that can help improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of dark spots with less irritation.

Based on the products available, here are a few options suitable for gentle exfoliation that can be mixed with water:

  • FruitPeel™: This is a gentle exfoliant derived from fruit extracts. It is recommended for use at 1-5%, with 3% being a common concentration. To make a simple solution, you can mix 3g of FruitPeel™ with 97g of water.
  • Natural PHA (Gluconolactone): PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) like Gluconolactone are known for being less irritating than traditional AHAs due to their larger molecular size. It can be used at 1-15%. For a starting point, you could use 3-5%. Mix 3-5g of Natural PHA with 95-97g of water.
  • Pumpkin Renew™: This ingredient offers gentle exfoliation comparable to lower concentrations of Glycolic Acid. It is recommended for use at 1-10%, with 3-5% for daily use or up to 10% for occasional use. For a 5% solution, mix 5g of Pumpkin Renew™ with 95g of water.
  • Malt-Exfo™ (Maltobionic acid, Polyhydroxy acid): Another PHA, Maltobionic acid provides gentle exfoliation and also offers superior hydration and antioxidant benefits. It is recommended for use at 1-5%. Mix 3g of Malt-Exfo™ with 97g of water for a 3% solution.

General Mixing and Usage Instructions:

  1. Choose one of the recommended exfoliation ingredients.
  2. Measure the desired amount of the ingredient and distilled water according to the percentage you want to achieve (e.g., 3g ingredient + 97g water for a 3% solution).
  3. Mix thoroughly until the ingredient is dissolved. Some ingredients like Natural PHA may take a couple of hours to fully dissolve.
  4. Apply a small amount to the affected areas of melasma using a cotton pad or clean fingertips.
  5. Start by using this solution a few times a week and gradually increase frequency as your skin tolerates it.
  6. Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying to larger areas.
  7. Crucially, always follow up with broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) during the day, as exfoliation makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, which can worsen melasma.

These gentle exfoliants can help improve skin texture and the appearance of melasma over time when used consistently and with proper sun protection.