Alcohol-Free Perfume Bases and Stabilizers

Question

Hello admin, I have some questions about making alcohol-free perfume. Based on previous forum discussions and comparing ingredients to find a solvent alternative to [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/706-alcohol-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C.html:2y06ivhv]alcohol[/url:2y06ivhv] and avoiding fixed oils, I found 2-3 ingredients that evaporate quickly, such as 1. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%99-silicone/1492-dimethicone-1secs.html:2y06ivhv]Dimethicone 1Secs[/url:2y06ivhv] and 2. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/228-isododecane.html:2y0B6ivhv]Isododecane[/url:2y0B6ivhv]. I would like to know: 1. Can these two ingredients be used as a base instead of [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/706-alcohol-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C.html:2y06ivhv]alcohol[/url:2y06ivhv]? 2. Can these two ingredients be used alone, or do they need to be mixed with other ingredients (like water or [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/oil-in-water-high-hlb/718-flora-solve-%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3.html:2y06ivhv]FloraSolve[/url:2y06ivhv])? 3. Can the [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/328-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B6%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99-fragrance-fixative:2y06ivhv]fragrance fixative[/url:2y06ivhv] from your store dissolve in the above ingredients? Additionally, regarding stabilizers to prevent degradation, I am interested in the following: 1. Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), 2. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1332-pentaerythrityl-tetra-di-t-butyl-hydroxyhydrocinnamate.html:2y06ivhv]Protec™ OX[/url:2y06ivhv], and 3. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1333-benzotriazolyl-dodecyl-p-cresol.html:2y06ivhv]Protec™ UV[/url:2y06ivhv]. I would like to know: 1. Which of these ingredients is suitable for preventing the degradation of [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/319-%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A1:2y06ivhv]perfume[/url:2y06ivhv] (when making rollerball and dabber perfumes, in both opaque and clear packaging)? 2. Can the above ingredients dissolve in DPG? 3. Can all three ingredients dissolve in [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/search?search_query=dimethicone&orderby=position&orderway=desc:2y06ivhv]Dimethicone[/url:2y06ivhv] 1sec and [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/228-isododecane.html:2y06ivhv]Isododecane[/url:2y06ivhv]? Thank you for your answer.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Alcohol-Free Perfume Bases and Stabilizers

Fast-Evaporating Bases (Alcohol Substitutes)

You asked about using Dimethicone 1Secs and Isododecane as a base instead of alcohol.

Dimethicone 1Secs is a special silicone oil that evaporates very quickly, similar to alcohol, but without the skin irritation. It is suitable for use in formulas where you want a fast-evaporating base.
Isododecane is an ultra-lightweight emollient that also evaporates quickly from the skin, leaving no sticky residue. It is suitable for use as a solvent or carrier in oil-free formulas that need to be very light.

Both Dimethicone 1Secs and Isododecane can be used as a base for perfume, particularly in oil-based or silicone-based formulations.

Regarding mixing them:

Dimethicone 1Secs dissolves in silicones and a wide range of oils. It does not mix with water on its own; a special ingredient like SiliSolve would be needed to combine it with water.
Isododecane dissolves in silicones, hydrocarbons, and isoparaffins. It is not soluble in water.

If you want to create a water-based alcohol-free perfume, you would need a solubilizer like Flora Solve™ Clear. Flora Solve™ Clear is designed to combine essential oils and fragrance oils with water without using alcohol. You would typically mix the fragrance oil with Flora Solve™ Clear first (usually 2-5 parts Flora Solve™ Clear to 1 part fragrance) and then add this mixture to your water base. Dimethicone 1Secs and Isododecane are not suitable for solubilizing fragrance in water.

Regarding fragrance fixatives, a common fixative like Dipropylene glycol (DPG) is water-soluble and dissolves perfume well, acting as a fixative by slowing down evaporation. However, DPG is not soluble in oil or silicone bases like Dimethicone 1Secs or Isododecane. If you are using Dimethicone 1Secs or Isododecane as your primary base, you would need to find oil-soluble fixatives, but specific oil-soluble fixatives were not identified in the product search with details on their solubility in these specific bases.

Stabilizers and Antioxidants

You asked about using BHT, Protec™ OX, and Protec™ UV to prevent perfume degradation and their solubility.

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) is an antioxidant that helps maintain the quality of ingredients in formulas by protecting against oxidation. It is oil-soluble.
Protec™ OX is a highly effective antioxidant that protects ingredients from deterioration caused by free radicals and oxidation. It is oil-soluble and requires heat (70-80°C) to dissolve.
Protec™ UV is a UV absorber that protects ingredients from damage caused by UV light. This is particularly useful for products in clear packaging. It is oil-soluble.

To prevent the degradation of perfume, especially fragrance oils which can be sensitive to oxidation and light:

An antioxidant like BHT or Protec™ OX can help protect the fragrance from oxidation. Protec™ OX is noted as having higher efficiency.
Protec™ UV is suitable for protecting the perfume from UV light, which can cause changes, especially in clear bottles.

For best protection, especially in clear packaging (rollerballs or dabbers), using both an antioxidant (BHT or Protec™ OX) and a UV absorber (Protec™ UV) is recommended. For opaque packaging, an antioxidant is more critical.

Regarding their solubility:

In DPG: BHT, Protec™ OX, and Protec™ UV are oil-soluble. Dipropylene glycol (DPG) is water-soluble. Therefore, these three substances are unlikely to dissolve well in DPG.
In Dimethicone 1Secs and Isododecane: BHT, Protec™ OX, and Protec™ UV are oil-soluble. Dimethicone 1Secs dissolves in silicones and a wide range of oils, and Isododecane dissolves in silicones and hydrocarbons. Therefore, BHT, Protec™ OX (with heat), and Protec™ UV should be soluble in Dimethicone 1Secs and Isododecane.