Alcohol-free Pillow Mist Formulation Questions

Asked by: lalida.spp On: August 01, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am looking to create an Alcohol-free Pillow mist using a base of water + Witch Hazel, with fragrance from Essential Oils and terpenes. I have the following questions:

  1. Are Linalool, Myrcene, Geraniol, and Limonene all naturally derived terpenes? If not, which ones are not? Can they be used in fragrance mixtures? Do they all have aromatherapy properties? (I understand these terpenes are found in cannabis and have sedative effects, so I want to use them in a pillow mist to help with sleep.)
  2. How should I use Linalool, Myrcene, Geraniol, and Limonene? Can I mix them directly into the Essential Oils first, and then mix that blend into the base?
  3. What should be the ratio of terpenes to Essential Oil? Or does it depend on the desired concentration? Are there any precautions I should be aware of?
  4. To mix the water, Witch Hazel, and fragrance, are there any recommended solvents? I need one that doesn't require heating to combine the ingredients, as I'm concerned about the fragrance and terpenes degrading. A solvent that uses a small proportion would be ideal. (What proportion should it be?)
  5. Is there a recommended ratio between water and Witch Hazel?
  6. For preservation, is Mild Preserved Eco™ sufficient? I want to claim the product is Preservative-Free.
  7. How do I calculate the expiry date? Or does Myskinrecipes provide this calculation service?
  8. I want the product to have a shelf life of about 2 years. Based on the ingredients used, is this feasible?
  9. Are these ingredients safe for pregnant women? Please advise on warning labels. Should I include warnings about potential allergies to substances in the solution, or is listing the ingredients clearly sufficient?
  10. Are there any recommended fixatives? I don't quite understand the FloraFix table. Can FloraFix be used with these ingredients, and what proportion should I use?

Answer

Guidance for Creating Alcohol-free Pillow Mist

For creating an alcohol-free pillow mist using a base of water and Witch Hazel combined with Essential Oils and Terpenes, here are some recommendations:

1. Natural Terpenes and Aromatherapy Properties

  • Linalool, Myrcene, Geraniol, and Limonene are naturally occurring terpenes found in many plants, including various essential oils. While these substances can be synthesized, they are also widely produced from natural sources.
  • These substances can be used in fragrance mixtures. They possess different aromatherapy properties:
    • Research suggests that Linalool and Myrcene may have calming or sedative effects, which aligns with your goal of using them in a pillow mist to aid sleep.
    • Geraniol and Limonene are typically associated with floral/rose and citrus scents, respectively, and their aromatherapy effects are often described as uplifting or mood-enhancing. However, individual responses may vary.

2. How to Mix Terpenes

Yes, you can mix Linalool, Myrcene, Geraniol, and Limonene together with your desired essential oils to create your complete fragrance blend first. This fragrance blend is then added to the water and Witch Hazel base using a solubilizer.

3. Ratio of Terpenes to Essential Oils and Precautions

There is no fixed ratio for terpenes to essential oils; it depends on the desired scent profile and intensity. Terpenes are potent aromatic compounds. You should start with small amounts and adjust carefully.
Precautions: High concentrations of some terpenes (especially Limonene and Geraniol) can be irritating or cause sensitization, particularly on the skin. While a pillow mist is sprayed on fabric, the risk might be lower than direct skin application, but it is still advisable to use them judiciously. Always follow recommended usage rates for the final product type.

4. Solvent/Solubilizer for Mixing Water, Witch Hazel, and Fragrance

Since water and oils (Essential Oils + Terpenes) do not mix directly without heat, you need a solubilizer to help the ingredients combine well and result in a clear, stable product.

  • Flora Solve™ Clear is a solubilizer designed to dissolve essential oils and fragrance oils in water without using alcohol, helping to create a clear and stable product.
  • Free Solve™ is another option, a high-performance, PEG-free solubilizer.
  • How to Use and Ratio:
    • For Flora Solve™ Clear, a ratio of 2-5 parts solubilizer to 1 part fragrance blend (Essential Oils + Terpenes) is recommended. Mix Flora Solve™ Clear with the fragrance blend thoroughly first (stir or blend well). Then, slowly add this mixture to your water and Witch Hazel base gradually while stirring continuously until clear and combined. Avoid adding the water base to the solubilizer/fragrance mix, as this can cause thickening.
    • For Free Solve™, the general usage rate is 1-10% in the final formula. It should be mixed with the oil phase first before adding to the water base.
  • Choose one based on suitability and desired results.

5. Recommended Ratio of Water to Witch Hazel

Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) can be used at a rate of 10-100%. For a pillow mist where you want the properties of Witch Hazel, you might use a relatively high proportion, such as 30-70% of the total water base (Water + Witch Hazel), with the remainder being purified water. The exact ratio can be adjusted based on desired efficacy and feel. Remember to account for the percentages of the solubilizer and fragrance blend you will add.

6. Mild Preserved Eco™ and Preservative-Free Claim

Mild Preserved Eco™ is designed to function as a preservative but is not classified as one by the FDA, allowing you to claim the product is "Preservative-Free".

  • For a water-based product containing natural ingredients like a pillow mist, it is recommended to use Mild Preserved Eco™ at a rate of 1.5-2.0% to ensure effective control of microbial growth.
  • However, to claim "Preservative-Free" using Mild Preserved Eco™, it is essential to perform a Challenge Test on your specific finished formula to confirm its effectiveness in inhibiting microbial growth under actual production and usage conditions.

7. Shelf Life Calculation

Determining the exact shelf life of a finished product requires stability testing and challenge testing. These tests help confirm that the product maintains its quality (appearance, scent, pH, viscosity) and remains free from microbial contamination over the specified period.
MySkinRecipes provides information on the shelf life of individual raw materials (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco™ and Free Solve™ have a minimum shelf life of 2 years, Witch Hazel has at least 3 years). However, we do not offer a shelf-life calculation service for custom formulations. You would need to conduct testing on your finished product yourself.

8. Feasibility of a 2-Year Shelf Life

Achieving a 2-year shelf life for a pillow mist is possible if an effective preservative system is used at an appropriate concentration (such as Mild Preserved Eco™ at 1.5-2.0%), good manufacturing practices are followed, and the product is packaged appropriately (e.g., opaque, airtight bottles) and stored correctly (away from light and heat).
The stability of the fragrance blend (Essential Oils and Terpenes) over time is also a factor, as some fragrance components can degrade. Most importantly, a challenge test is necessary to confirm microbial stability for 2 years.

9. Safety for Pregnant Women and Warning Labels

  • Safety for Pregnant Women: While Witch Hazel and many essential oils/terpenes are generally considered safe for external use or inhalation in moderation, some essential oils are not recommended or require caution during pregnancy (e.g., peppermint, rosemary, clary sage). Since this product is intended for inhalation near the user, it is highly recommended to consult with a qualified aromatherapist or healthcare professional regarding the safety of your specific essential oil and terpene blend for pregnant women.
  • Warning Labels: Clear labeling with warnings and information is essential for your product:
    • Ingredients List: Clearly list all ingredients using their INCI names. This is crucial for consumers with allergies or sensitivities.
    • Usage Instructions: Provide clear instructions on how to use the product (e.g., "Spray lightly on pillows or linens").
    • External Use Only: State that the product is for external use only.
    • Avoid Contact: Include a warning to avoid contact with eyes and broken skin.
    • Keep Out of Reach: Standard safety warning to keep out of reach of children and pets.
    • Flammability: If the product contains any flammable components (less likely in an alcohol-free mist, but some fragrance components can be), include a flammability warning.
    • Allergens: Since essential oils and terpenes contain natural allergens (like Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, etc.), it is best practice to list these specific allergens on the label if they are present above certain concentrations, according to cosmetic regulations (e.g., EU cosmetic regulation requires listing 26 specific fragrance allergens). Even if not legally required in your region, providing this information helps consumers with known sensitivities.
    • Specific Groups: Consider adding a general caution statement like "Consult with a healthcare professional before use if pregnant, nursing, or have a medical condition."

10. Fixative

A fixative helps to reduce the evaporation rate of more volatile fragrance components, making the scent last longer. While the search results did not show a product named "FloraFix" specifically identified as a fixative for this context, the concept of using a fixative is relevant.

  • In a water/Witch Hazel/solubilizer system, achieving significant fragrance longevity can be challenging without alcohol. Using a higher concentration of the fragrance blend itself or incorporating essential oils with naturally lower volatility (base notes) can help.
  • Some solubilizers might offer a minor fixative effect by slowing down evaporation.
  • If you find a specific fixative product designed for water-based fragrance mists, follow the manufacturer's recommended usage rate. Generally, fixatives are used at low percentages, often in the range of 0.5% to a few percent, depending on their efficacy and the desired effect.

I hope this information is helpful for developing your Pillow Mist formula.