Alcohol-Free Water-Resistant Sunscreen Milk for Oily Skin
Question
I want to create a liquid milk sunscreen formulation similar to Allie. The formula should be alcohol-free (specifically without Ethyl Alcohol), suitable for oily skin, help control shine, ensure makeup longevity, and be water-resistant. What considerations and adjustments are needed for this type of formulation?
Answer
Okay, I understand you're looking to create a water-resistant, liquid milk-like sunscreen formulation similar to Allie, but without alcohol, specifically tailored for oily skin to control shine and ensure makeup longevity. You've provided a list of ingredients you're considering.
Based on your requirements and the staff's helpful questions, here's a breakdown and some points to consider for adjusting the formulation:
Addressing Your Concerns:
- Removing Alcohol: As the staff mentioned, Ethyl Alcohol (ID 706) contributes to the light, fast-drying feel of the original formulation. Removing it will likely result in a heavier texture. To compensate, you might need to adjust the levels of other ingredients, particularly the silicones and potentially add other texture modifiers.
- Oily Skin & Makeup Longevity:
- Polymethylsilsesquioxane (ID 1020) in your list is an excellent ingredient for providing a matte finish, absorbing oil, and improving the feel and longevity of makeup. Keeping or potentially optimizing the amount of this ingredient is beneficial.
- Consider incorporating other oil-absorbing powders like Silica or Nylon-12, or specific oil-control agents if needed, though Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a good start.
- The silicones like Cyclomethicone (ID 171) also contribute to a smooth, non-greasy feel and can help with makeup spreadability and wear.
- Water Resistance: You mentioned "water-resistant" and "long-lasting". The staff correctly asked about the level of water resistance needed (sweat vs. sports). High levels of water resistance often require film-forming polymers that can feel occlusive or heavy, which might not be ideal for oily skin. Clarifying the required water resistance level is crucial to balance performance and skin feel.
Adjustments to Consider:
- Replacing Alcohol: Since alcohol is removed, you'll need to find other ways to achieve a light, non-greasy feel. Adjusting the ratio of the silicone phase (Cyclomethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane) to the water phase, and potentially using different types of silicones or emollients, could help.
- Emulsifier System: SiliSolve Plus™ (ID 680) is designed for creating water-in-silicone or silicone-in-water emulsions. The amount and type of emulsifier are critical for the texture and stability of the final product, especially when removing a solvent like alcohol. You might need to adjust the percentage of SiliSolve Plus or consider other emulsifiers suitable for creating a light, milk-like texture without alcohol.
- UV Filters: Your list includes a mix of chemical filters (DHHB ID 528, Tris-Biphenyl Triazine ID 998, OMC ID 523) and a physical filter (Zinc Oxide ID 248). This combination provides broad-spectrum protection. Ensure the total percentage and combination of filters provide the desired SPF and PA level, as requested by the staff. The dispersion of Zinc Oxide (EasyDisperse™) is important for minimizing whitening and ensuring efficacy.
To help further, please provide:
- The specific SPF and PA level you are aiming for.
- Clarification on the required level of water resistance (e.g., resistant to sweat for daily wear, or highly resistant for swimming/sports).
- The full ingredient list from the original Allie sunscreen product** you used. This will help compare the original formulation's approach to achieving its texture and water resistance.
Once you provide this information, it will be easier to suggest more specific adjustments to the ingredient percentages and potentially recommend alternative ingredients to achieve your desired alcohol-free, oil-controlling, makeup-friendly, water-resistant sunscreen milk.
Related Products Mentioned
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
SiliSolve Plus™
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)