All-in-One Gel Serum Formulation

Asked by: thunwa.litz On: February 14, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to create an all-in-one facial moisturizer that is a lightweight gel, fast-absorbing, non-sticky, and can be used day and night. It should provide overall skin benefits, including brightening and anti-aging, acting with the concentration of both a serum and a cream in a single product.

I want a texture that is easy to apply, leaves no residue or oiliness, is a non-sticky gel but provides good hydration. It should also be layerable for increased hydration or usable as a sleeping mask.

I plan to use Hyaluronic Acid with multiple molecular sizes or Proteoglycan.

I have selected ingredients but lack knowledge regarding mixing, product texturization, adding fragrance, and incorporating preservatives.

Answer

All-in-One Gel Serum Formulation

Based on your requirements for a lightweight, non-greasy, fast-absorbing gel serum that provides overall skin benefits, including brightening and anti-aging, and can be used as a single step or a sleeping mask, here is a suggested formulation approach using a pre-made base and key active ingredients.

Using a pre-made gel base simplifies the formulation process significantly, which is helpful if you have limited experience.

Recommended Base and Ingredients:

  1. Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: This base already provides a lightweight gel texture and contains multiple molecular sizes of hyaluronic acid for hydration without stickiness. It serves as the main component of your formula.
  2. 4D Hyaluronic Acid: To enhance the multi-layer hydration and achieve the desired texture for layering or use as a sleeping mask, you can add more 4D Hyaluronic Acid. This ingredient combines four types of hyaluronic acid for comprehensive moisture retention.
  3. S-Proteoglycan™ Liquid: As an alternative or addition for hydration and skin benefits, S-Proteoglycan™ Liquid can be included. It is known for its skin-benefiting properties.
  4. Yeast Radiance™: For skin brightening, Yeast Radiance™ is a suitable ingredient. It helps to provide a radiant complexion without causing irritation.
  5. Pure-NMN™: To address anti-aging and oxidative stress concerns, Pure-NMN™ can be incorporated. It supports cellular processes important for skin health.
  6. REGU®-AGE: This ingredient, while often used for the eye area, can contribute to overall skin strengthening and may help with the appearance of fine lines, aligning with the anti-aging goal.
  7. Mild Preserved™ COS: A broad-spectrum preservative is essential to prevent microbial growth in your water-based gel. Mild Preserved™ COS is a good option as it is water-soluble and effective across a wide pH range.

Simple Formulation Method:

Using the Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base makes mixing straightforward. You can typically add the active ingredients and preservative directly into the base and stir gently until evenly dispersed. Avoid excessive heat during mixing.

Example Ingredient Proportions (Adjust as needed):

  • Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: 80-90%
  • 4D Hyaluronic Acid: 5-10%
  • S-Proteoglycan™ Liquid: 3-5%
  • Yeast Radiance™: 3%
  • Pure-NMN™: 1%
  • REGU®-AGE: 3%
  • Mild Preserved™ COS: 1%

  • (Note: These are suggested starting points. You may need to adjust percentages based on desired texture and efficacy. Always refer to the supplier's recommended usage rates for each ingredient.)*

Adding Fragrance:

Adding fragrance is optional. If you choose to add a fragrance, select one that is suitable for cosmetic use and water-soluble or can be dispersed in a small amount of solubilizer before adding to the gel base. Add the fragrance in the final step, stirring gently. Start with a low concentration (e.g., 0.1-0.5%) and adjust to your preference. Be aware that some fragrances can affect the clarity or stability of the gel.

Adding Preservative:

Incorporating a preservative like Mild Preserved™ COS is crucial for the safety and shelf life of your product, especially since it is a water-based formula. Add the recommended amount (typically 0.75-1.5%) to the gel base and mix thoroughly.

Usage:

The resulting gel serum can be applied to the face morning and night after cleansing. For increased hydration or as a sleeping mask, apply a thicker layer.

Important Considerations:

  • Compatibility: While these ingredients are generally compatible, it's always recommended to perform a small test batch to check for any interactions, changes in texture, color, or clarity over time.
  • pH Adjustment: Check the pH of your final formulation. The optimal pH range for skin is typically between 4.5 and 5.5. Some ingredients have specific pH requirements for stability and efficacy. Mild Preserved™ COS works in a wide range (2-8), but the efficacy of other actives might be pH-dependent. Adjust the pH if necessary using a dilute acid (like citric acid solution) or base (like sodium hydroxide solution), adding drop by drop and mixing well before re-measuring.
  • Testing: Before widespread use, test the finished product on a small area of skin to check for any irritation or adverse reactions.
  • Hygiene: Ensure all equipment and containers are clean and sanitized to prevent microbial contamination during the mixing process.

This approach provides a relatively simple way to create an all-in-one gel serum with the properties you desire, combining hydration, brightening, and anti-aging benefits in a pleasant texture.