Alpha Arbutin + B3 Serum Formulation: Clear vs. Opaque Texture

Asked by: tantip732 On: September 19, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have revised my Alpha Arbutin + B3 serum formula. Could you please review its suitability and advise on the expected texture and mixing procedure?

Ingredients:

  • Distilled Water
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide)
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine)
  • Alpha Arbutin
  • Licorice Extract
  • Mild Preserved Eco™
  • Cyclomethicone
  • Silicone Gel
  • Warp Cream Maker™

Answer

Hello!

Thank you for providing your revised Alpha Arbutin + B3 serum formula.

The active ingredients you have chosen for whitening and reducing dark spots, such as Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine), Alpha Arbutin, and Licorice Extract, are good choices and suitable for your desired goals.

However, as the staff previously mentioned, a formula containing silicones (Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel) and an emulsifier (Warp Cream Maker™) will result in an opaque emulsion (like a light cream or lotion), not a clear serum.

If a clear serum texture is your absolute priority, you would need to remove all silicone and emulsifier ingredients and use a water-soluble gelling agent instead, such as Pro Polymer, as previously suggested by the staff.

If you are okay with a slightly opaque serum texture, this revised formula is generally suitable.

For mixing instructions for this formula (which will be a W/Si emulsion):

  1. Prepare Phase 1: Combine Distilled Water, Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, Alpha Arbutin, Licorice Extract, and Mild Preserved Eco™. Mix until the water-soluble ingredients are fully dissolved.
  2. Prepare Phase 2: Combine Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel, and Warp Cream Maker™. Mix well.
  3. Slowly add Phase 1 into Phase 2 bit by bit while continuously stirring or blending until a smooth, homogeneous emulsion is formed. Heat is not required.

It is recommended to make a small test batch first.