Alternative for Methyl Gluceth-20 in Water Essence for Soft Feel

Asked by: kphphph On: September 18, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a water essence and used Methyl Gluceth-20, but it caused a heating sensation. I need an alternative ingredient that is water-soluble and can replace Methyl Gluceth-20.

The desired properties for the alternative ingredient are:

  • Water-soluble
  • Provides a soft, slippery feel similar to silicone
  • Offers moisturizing properties
  • Is NOT a silicone (as I am sensitive to silicones)

My formula also contains Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule), Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule), and Phenoxyethanol. MOIST24 (Glycereth-26) is mentioned as primarily a humectant, not providing the desired soft/slippery feel.

Could you suggest alternative water-soluble, non-silicone ingredients that provide a soft, slippery feel and moisturizing benefits for my water essence?

Answer

Alternative Ingredients for Water Essence

Thank you for sharing your water essence formula and the issue you encountered with Methyl Gluceth-20 causing a heating sensation. Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant and conditioning agent, and while generally mild, some individuals may experience warmth or a heating effect, especially at higher concentrations.

You are looking for a water-soluble ingredient that can replace Methyl Gluceth-20, providing a soft, slippery feel similar to silicone, along with moisturizing properties, while avoiding silicones due to sensitivity.

Based on your requirements for a water-soluble, non-silicone ingredient that offers a soft, slippery feel and moisturizing benefits, here are a few alternative conditioning agents you could consider:

  • Poly-Conditioner Easy (Polyquaternium-39): This ingredient is specifically noted as a non-silicone option that provides slipperiness and a soft, smooth feel to the skin. It is liquid, easy to use, and water-soluble. It can be used at a rate of 1-4% (1-2% recommended).
  • WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51): This ingredient provides a slippery feel on the skin and helps prevent water loss, contributing to moisturization. It is water-soluble and typically used at 1-2%.
  • Poly-Conditioner 47 (Polyquaternium-47): This conditioning agent imparts a lubricious and moist feeling to the skin, along with softness. It is water-soluble and can be used at 0.1-3%.
  • Poly-Conditioner 28 (Polyquaternium-28): This ingredient offers good lubricity and film-forming properties, providing softness on the skin. It is water-soluble and can be used at 0.1-3%.

These Polyquaternium compounds are water-soluble conditioning polymers that can provide the desired slip and soft feel without being silicones. You may need to experiment with the usage rate of the chosen alternative to achieve the preferred texture in your formula.

Your original formula also includes Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) and Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) for hydration, and Phenoxyethanol as a preservative. These ingredients are suitable for a water-based essence.

We hope these suggestions help you create a water essence with the desired feel!