Analysis of Amela-Ex Cream and a Recommended Alternative Formula

Thank you for sharing the ingredient list of Amela-Ex cream and your skin concerns. It's great that you found a product that works well for your sensitive skin. Let's analyze the formula and propose a similar alternative using ingredients available on myskinrecipes.com.

Based on the ingredient list you provided, the key active ingredients in Amela-Ex cream that likely contribute to its effectiveness for melasma and overall skin health are:

• Tranexamic Acid: This is a well-known ingredient for reducing hyperpigmentation, including melasma.
• Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate: This is a water-soluble derivative of Azelaic Acid. It offers similar benefits to Azelaic Acid, such as reducing dark spots, controlling oil production, and calming redness, but it is generally considered less irritating and more moisturizing, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): A multi-tasking ingredient that helps strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation and redness, improve skin elasticity (addressing wrinkles), regulate oil production, and reduce hyperpigmentation. This is particularly beneficial for your sensitive and combination skin type.
• Sodium Hyaluronate: A form of Hyaluronic Acid, which is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds moisture in the skin, helping to alleviate the dryness and flakiness you experience despite having oily skin.

The other ingredients listed are primarily emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, humectants, preservatives, and fragrance, which form the base of the cream and ensure its stability.

It's likely that the inclusion of Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (a gentler form of Azelaic Acid), Niacinamide (known for its barrier-strengthening and anti-inflammatory properties), and hydrating ingredients like Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate, in a well-formulated base, contributes to why this cream doesn't cause irritation or breakouts for your sensitive skin.

The alternative formula suggested by user C7 contains the core actives (Tranexamic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Niacinamide) but uses pure Azelaic Acid, which might be too harsh for your sensitive skin compared to the derivative in Amela-Ex. The base is also quite simple.

To create a similar formula using ingredients available on myskinrecipes.com that addresses your specific skin concerns and sensitivity, I recommend the following:

Recommended Formula for Sensitive Skin with Melasma, Wrinkles, and Combination Skin (Oily T-zone, Dry Cheeks)

This formula aims to replicate the key benefits of Amela-Ex while using gentle ingredients suitable for sensitive skin.

Ingredients:

• Water: 68.9%
• Glycerin (USP/Food Grade): 5%
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
• Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA): 0.1%
• CreamThick™ (Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate): 2%
• Emulsifying Wax 1000: 4%
• LipidSoft™ Moist (Triethylhexanoin): 7%
• Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor): 2%
• Azela-Lip™ (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate Ultra-Fine Powder): 2%
• Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus): 1%

Explanation of Ingredients:

• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Targets melasma and hyperpigmentation.
• Azela-Lip™ (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate Ultra-Fine Powder): A gentle derivative of Azelaic Acid to help with dark spots, oil control, and redness, suitable for sensitive skin.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Improves skin barrier, reduces inflammation, helps with wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and controls oil. The Safe-B3™ type is high purity and less likely to cause flushing.
• Glycerin (USP/Food Grade) & Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA): Powerful humectants to provide hydration and address the dry/flaky areas of your skin. Super-HYA™ is an advanced form of Hyaluronic Acid with enhanced skin absorption.
• LipidSoft™ Moist (Triethylhexanoin) & Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor): Emollients that provide a soft, smooth feel without being heavy or greasy, suitable for oily skin. LipidSoft™ Moist is non-comedogenic and helps retain moisture. Dimethicone provides slip and a smooth finish.
• Emulsifying Wax 1000 & CreamThick™ (Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate): These create the stable cream texture. CreamThick™ is easy to use and works well with electrolytes, providing a soft skin feel.
• Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus): A broad-spectrum preservative to keep the formula safe and stable, free from parabens and formaldehyde.

Mixing Instructions:

1. Water Phase: In a beaker, combine Water, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, Safe-B3™, Super-HYA™, and CreamThick™. Stir or use a magnetic stirrer to disperse CreamThick™ and dissolve the powders. Gentle heating (e.g., up to 50°C) can help dissolve the powders faster, but avoid prolonged high heat.
2. Oil Phase: In a separate beaker, combine Emulsifying Wax 1000, LipidSoft™ Moist, Dimethicone, and Azela-Lip™. Heat gently (e.g., to 60-70°C) to melt the wax and disperse Azela-Lip™. Stir well to ensure Azela-Lip™ is evenly distributed.
3. Emulsification: Slowly pour the heated oil phase into the heated water phase while continuously stirring or using a homogenizer. Mix until a stable emulsion forms and the cream starts to thicken as it cools.
4. Cool Down Phase: Once the cream has cooled down to below 40°C, add Phenoxyethanol SA. Mix thoroughly.
5. Final Check: Check the pH of the final cream. The optimal pH for the actives is generally between 4.0 and 7.0. Adjust with a few drops of a suitable pH adjuster if necessary.

This formula provides the key active ingredients found in Amela-Ex, using the gentler Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate. It also incorporates emollients and humectants suitable for your combination skin type and uses a gentle preservative system.