Alternative Ingredients for Heated Lotion (Emulsifier & Preservative)

Asked by: ltnrw317 On: April 24, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a lotion using the double boil method and need to substitute Olivem (O/W emulsifier) and Leucidal (natural preservative). Could you please suggest alternative ingredients available at myskinrecipes.com that are suitable for this formulation method and product type?

Answer

Alternative Emulsifiers for Olivem

Olivem is an O/W (Oil-in-Water) emulsifier often used in natural formulations. Since your recipe involves heating (double boil), you need an emulsifier that can be incorporated into the heated oil phase. Here are a few options available at myskinrecipes.com:

  • Milk Lotion Maker™: This was already suggested by the staff. It is an O/W emulsifier that is mixed in the oil phase and heated to around 70°C, making it suitable for your double boil process. It is typically used at a rate of 1.0-5.0%.
  • Sucrose Cream Maker™: This is a 100% natural-based, nonionic O/W emulsifier. It comes in solid pellets and is dissolved in the oil phase using heat, fitting your double boil method. The recommended usage rate is 2-4%.
  • Emulsifying Beeswax (Non-Ionic, Natural): This natural emulsifier also acts as a thickener. It is dissolved in the oil phase with heat and is suitable for formulas with a pH range of 3.0-10.0. It can be used at 0.5-5%, with 3% being a common recommendation.
  • Emulsifying Wax 1000 (e.q. Emulgade 1000 NI): This is a widely used nonionic emulsifying wax for O/W emulsions. It is mixed into the oil phase and requires heating to dissolve, making it suitable for your recipe's method. The typical usage rate is 1-5%.

When substituting Olivem, start with the recommended usage rate for the alternative emulsifier you choose and adjust slightly based on the texture and stability you achieve.

Alternative Natural Preservatives for Leucidal

Leucidal is a natural preservative derived from fermented radishes, often added during the cooling phase of a formulation. You need a natural preservative suitable for a water-based lotion that can either withstand some heat or be added during cool-down. Here are some options:

  • PaeoniaPreserve™ (Natural Preservative): This was suggested by the staff. It is a natural liquid preservative that should be added in the final step of your recipe, avoiding heat above 60°C. Use at 0.5-2.0%.
  • NaturePreserve™ Ultra (Gluconolactone & Sodium Benzoate): This is a 100% natural powder preservative that has good heat resistance and can be mixed into the water phase before heating. It works in a pH range of 3-6. The usage rate is 0.75-2.0%, with 1.25% recommended for most products.
  • Coco-Preserve™ (Preservative from Coconut Extract): This is a natural liquid preservative that is water-soluble. It should be added to the water portion of the formula, but you should avoid heat exceeding 50°C. Use at 0.8-1.5%.
  • Global Guard™ 221 (pH 2-7, Natural): This is a natural, water-soluble, broad-spectrum preservative. It must be added when the temperature of the mixture is below 45°C and works in a pH range of 2-7. Use at 0.5-1.1%.

For PaeoniaPreserve, Coco-Preserve, and Global Guard 221, ensure your lotion has cooled sufficiently before adding them to avoid degrading the preservative. NaturePreserve Ultra can be added earlier in the process. Always perform a challenge test on your final product to ensure the preservative system is effective.

Remember to adjust the percentage of the alternative ingredients based on their recommended usage rates, which may differ from the original recipe's percentages for Olivem and Leucidal.