Alternative Thickeners for Non-Tacky, Dropper-Friendly Serum with Electrolytes

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Regarding your first question about the texture of a gel made with Pro Polymer + Cyclomethicone compared to Pro Polymer Silk:
The staff confirms that the skin feel can be similar between a gel made with Pro Polymer + Cyclomethicone and Pro Polymer Silk. This is because both Cyclomethicone and Pro Polymer Silk function as skin conditioning agents, providing a smooth feel on the skin. However, their mechanisms are different. Pro Polymer Silk is a cationic (positively charged) polymer that adheres to the skin (which has a negative charge), acting as a skin conditioner. This cationic nature is why Pro Polymer Silk can cause pilling or separation when layered with products containing anionic ingredients, as you experienced. Pro Polymer does not have this compatibility issue. The staff did not have clear data on whether Pro Polymer or Pro Polymer Silk provides better absorption.

You mentioned experiencing tackiness after drying with Pro Polymer/Silk and asked if switching to other thickeners would be better for your specific serum formula (containing Repair Activator, Pitera, NMF, Trehalose, Natto Gum, Rice Vitamin, Vitamin B3, Creatine 100, and no oil), aiming for a non-thick, dropper-friendly consistency.

Let's evaluate the alternatives you asked about:

1. Hydroxyethyl Cellulose:

   • It provides thickening but results in a different texture compared to Pro Polymer.
   • Its ability to enhance penetration is less than Pro Polymer.
   • It tolerates electrolytes (like NMF in your formula) and acid/alkali well.
   • It is non-ionic, making it generally compatible with other products without charge issues.
   • Heat-sensitive ingredients can be added after the gel is formed.
   • Its main drawback is poor oil emulsification, but this is not a concern for your oil-free formula.

2. Xanthan Gum:

   • It can thicken but provides a different texture compared to Pro Polymer or Hydroxyethyl Cellulose.
   • It does not help with penetration enhancement.
   • It tolerates electrolytes and is anionic, making it generally compatible.
   • It is often used as a secondary thickener.

3. Carbomer:

   • It can thicken but provides a different texture.
   • It is sensitive to electrolytes. Since your formula contains NMF, Carbomer is likely not suitable unless the NMF is removed.
   • Sodium Bicarbonate cannot be used to gel Carbomer; other bases like Triethanolamine, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, or Arginine are needed.
   • Carbomer is anionic and generally compatible.

4. Sugar Thick (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate):

   • It can thicken skincare formulas and tolerates electrolytes.
   • However, the texture might feel slightly sticky compared to thickeners specifically for skincare.

5. RiceSorb (Rice Starch):

   • It is not a primary thickener for this type of serum. Its main function is oil absorption, most effective in powder form.

Considering your formula (with NMF, no oil, dropper consistency) and the tackiness concern:

• Carbomer is likely unsuitable due to NMF.
• Pro Polymer is an option for penetration enhancement but may be tacky.
• Hydroxyethyl Cellulose is a suitable alternative for electrolyte tolerance and compatibility, offering a different texture and potentially less penetration enhancement than Pro Polymer.
• Xanthan Gum is less ideal as a primary thickener but tolerates electrolytes.
• Sugar Thick is electrolyte tolerant but might be sticky.

For a dropper-friendly serum with electrolytes and no oil, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose is a strong candidate if you want to avoid the potential tackiness of Pro Polymer and ensure compatibility with other products.

Regarding whether Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, or Carbomer require caution when layering with other products due to charge: No, these thickeners (non-ionic or anionic) are generally compatible with most other skincare products, unlike cationic Pro Polymer Silk.

Thank you.
Staff - MySkinRecipes