Alternatives for Binders in Pressed Powder Eye Shadow and Cream Maker Usage

How to Make Pressed Powder Eye Shadow and Suitable Binders

Hello! Making pressed powder eye shadow is slightly different from making cream powder eye shadow. The main focus is on using substances that help bind the pigments and powders together into a single mass when pressed. These substances are called Binders.

Regarding the question about "Cream Maker," generally, Cream Maker is used for making cream or lotion products, which primarily consist of water and oil, to help emulsify them. However, for pressed powder eye shadow, which is mostly dry powder and doesn't use a large amount of water or aim to create a cream texture, Cream Maker is usually not used.

For binders used in pressed powder eye shadow, in addition to alcohol, there are other options. These substances coat the powder and pigment particles, allowing them to be pressed into shape. When the binder evaporates or dries, it leaves behind the pigments bound together as a solid cake.

Binders and Alternatives to Cyclomethicone

According to the previous information, Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone were recommended as binders for pressed powder eye shadow, along with Butylene Glycol.

• Cyclomethicone (e.g., Cyclopentasiloxane): This is a lightweight, volatile silicone that helps the product spread easily, feels non-greasy, and aids in color dispersion before evaporating after pressing.

  • Alternatives to Cyclomethicone: If you wish to avoid silicones or need substances with similar properties but faster evaporation, you can consider using the LipidSoft group, which was developed to replace Cyclomethicone. Examples include LipidSoft™ D5 (Cyclomethicone Replacer) or LipidSoft™ Cyclo (e.q. Cetiol Ultimate). These are emollients that provide a smooth feel similar to silicone and evaporate well.

• Dimethicone: This is a silicone oil that gives a smooth feel, helps with binding, and makes the product easy to spread. It is available in various viscosities, such as Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor) or Dimethicone (Light/100, Low-Odor), which have low viscosity and are relatively light, suitable for use in pressed eye shadow formulas.

• Butylene Glycol: This is a humectant and solvent that helps dissolve some binders and provides a slight moisture to the powder for easier pressing. It must be used in an appropriate amount; too much can make the product soft or sticky.

Ratios and the Pressing Process

The ratio of binder used depends on the type of powders, Mica colors, and binders chosen, as well as the desired hardness. There is no single ratio that works for all formulas. However, generally, liquid binders (like Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, LipidSoft) are used at approximately 3-10% of the total formula. Butylene Glycol might be used at 2-5%.

General Steps for Making Pressed Powder:

1. Mix the powders, Mica colors, and other dry ingredients thoroughly.
2. Gradually add the liquid binder mixture (e.g., Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, LipidSoft mixed with Butylene Glycol if used) to the dry mixture. Mix until the texture is crumbly but can hold together when lightly squeezed.
3. Scoop the mixture into a pan or mold for pressing.
4. Place a pressing paper on top and use a pressing tool to apply even pressure.
5. Let it sit and dry completely for the binder to evaporate or set (this may take 12-24 hours or longer, depending on the binder type and the thickness of the pressed cake).

Experimenting with the binder ratio and pressing method is crucial to achieve the desired hardness and properties for your pressed eye shadow.