Ampoule Formula Review

Your proposed formula for an ampoule targeting redness, acne, and skin barrier strengthening contains excellent ingredients known for these benefits. Here's a review of your questions:

1. Achieving pH 5.5

• The ingredients you've chosen are generally compatible with a pH of 5.5, which is a suitable pH for skin and optimal for the efficacy of Niacinamide and Panthenol.
• However, Panthenol powder itself has an alkaline pH (9.0-10.5). When mixed into your formula, it will likely raise the overall pH above 5.5.
• To achieve a pH of exactly 5.5, you will need to measure the pH of your final mixture after all ingredients are incorporated.
• You will then need to adjust the pH downwards by adding a few drops of a dilute acidic solution, such as Citric Acid solution or Lactic Acid solution, stirring well, and re-measuring until you reach your target pH of 5.5.
• No ingredients need to be removed for pH compatibility within this range.

2. Mixing Method

• Simple stirring might not be sufficient, particularly for dissolving Xanthan Gum. Xanthan Gum requires vigorous mixing to hydrate properly and form a smooth gel without clumps.
• A recommended method is to first disperse the Xanthan Gum in Glycerin. This helps prevent clumping when added to water.
• Then, add the Glycerin/Xanthan Gum mixture to the water phase while stirring rapidly (using a high-speed mixer like a hand blender is ideal) until a uniform gel is formed.
• Once the gel base is ready and has cooled, you can incorporate the other water-soluble ingredients like Niacinamide, Panthenol, Centella Asiatica Extract, and Phenoxyethanol, stirring gently until fully dissolved and homogenous.

3. Effectiveness at These Concentrations

• Yes, the concentrations you've chosen for the key active ingredients are appropriate and should yield effective results for your stated goals.
• Niacinamide at 5% is a well-established concentration for reducing redness, improving acne, strengthening the skin barrier, and reducing hyperpigmentation. The Safe-B3™ type is particularly well-tolerated at this level.
• Panthenol at 1-2% is within the effective range for its moisturizing, barrier-supporting, and anti-inflammatory benefits.
• Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) at 1-2% is also within the recommended usage rate for its wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-stimulating properties, which help with redness and acne scars.
• Glycerin at 10% provides excellent hydration.
• Phenoxyethanol at 0.5-1.0% ensures proper preservation of the formula.
• Overall, this formula is well-balanced and should be effective.