Analysis and Evaluation of Night Cream Formula
Question
I would like to ask about the following formula:
1. Is the overall formula OK?
2. Are there any ingredients that might cause sensitivity or are unnecessary?
3. Is this formula too sticky? I want it to be thick but not too heavy.
4. What is the proportion of solvent and water?
5. What is the approximate price?
Here is the formula:
- Repair Activator™ - 10%
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) - 8%
- Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (Matrixyl 3000) - 5%
- Ectoine (Ectoin) - 1%
- Quick-Coll® - 2%
- Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer - 4%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) - 5%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) - 3%
- TXC™ (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl) - 2%
- Natural Bisabolol - 1%
- Madecassoside-80 (Centella Asiatica Extract) - 1%
- Yeast Resurface - 3%
- Yeast Radiance™ - 3%
- Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract) - 5%
- Water-Capsule™ (Water-in-Oil Cream) - 3%
- Odor-Kill™ (ละลายน้ำ) - 1%
- น้ำกลั่น ปราศจากเชื้อ - 20%
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera) - 20%
- Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) - 3%
Thank you very much.
Answer
Analysis of Night Cream Formula
Here is an analysis of the Night Cream formula you provided:
1. Overall Formula Assessment:
The formula is very rich in active ingredients, combining various peptides, ferments, vitamins, and extracts known for their anti-aging, skin repairing, hydrating, and brightening properties. It targets multiple skin concerns simultaneously. The high concentration of actives suggests a potent formulation.
2. Potential Sensitivity and Unnecessary Ingredients:
- Sensitivity: With a high concentration of multiple active ingredients, particularly Niacinamide (5%) and the various ferment extracts (Bifida Ferment Lysate 10%, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 20%, Yeast extracts 6%, Beta Glucan 5%), there is a potential for sensitivity, especially for individuals with reactive skin. While these ingredients are beneficial, high percentages can sometimes cause flushing or irritation in some people. The inclusion of soothing ingredients like Natural Bisabolol and Madecassoside may help mitigate this risk.
- Unnecessary Ingredients: All listed ingredients appear to serve a specific function related to the formula's goals (anti-aging, hydration, texture, stability, odor control). Whether any are "unnecessary" is subjective and depends on the desired balance of effects and cost-effectiveness. The formula is packed with actives, which might be considered redundant by some formulators aiming for simplicity, but they are not functionally unnecessary based on their known properties. Odor-Kill™ is a functional additive for odor control.
3. Texture (Sticky/Heavy vs. Thick but Not Heavy):
The texture is likely to be thick due to ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer (4%) and Beta Glucan (5%), which are effective thickeners. However, the use of a Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsifier (Water-Capsule™ at 3%) typically results in a richer, more occlusive, and potentially heavier or slightly sticky feel compared to Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsions. Achieving a "thick but not heavy" feel can be challenging with a W/O base and these specific thickeners; the formula may lean towards a substantial or slightly tacky feel. If a lighter, non-heavy feel is a priority, an O/W emulsion system with different thickeners might be more suitable.
4. Solvent and Water Proportion:
The formula explicitly contains 20% distilled water and 20% Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (which is largely water). Many other active ingredients (peptides, extracts, vitamins) are typically supplied as aqueous solutions or powders that dissolve in water/solvents. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) at 3% acts as a solvent and penetration enhancer. The Water-Capsule™ emulsifier system also contains both oil and water components. While a precise ratio requires knowing the exact composition of each raw material, the aqueous phase (water + water from ingredients) is clearly the dominant component, likely making up well over 70% of the total formula, alongside a small percentage of DMI and the oil phase from the emulsifier.
5. Approximate Price:
I am unable to provide an approximate price for this formula. Calculating the cost requires detailed pricing information for each raw material at the specified percentages, which I do not have access to. The cost would also depend on batch size, manufacturing process, packaging, and other factors.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Water-Capsule™ (Water-in-Oil Cream)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Yeast Resurface
Yeast Radiance™
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Quick-Coll®
Odor-Kill™
Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer (Hyacross Gel)
TXC™ (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl)